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Frozen Drain Plug Removal On Hydraulic Control Valve


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#1 Twood OFFLINE  

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Posted January 20, 2012 - 04:11 PM

Does anyone have any ideas on removing the 1/4 " drain plug from a hydraulic control valve on a Case 222? First I tried just a plain allen wrench that didn"t work. Then a allen wrench in socket that didn't work. Then I tried my electric impact wrench that didn't work. Then took it to a hydraulic repair shop they tried it until the corners were rounded off and can't you a allen wrench on it any more. Someone told me to try a easy out on it now. Do I dare to heat it up. Or is that risking a chance of cracking the valve or doing other damage to the valve? I know before heating it the O Rings would need to be removed first. A step I would like to eliminate. Also I put Kroil Oil on it a couple of days prior of trying to take it out. Any ideas would be appreciated.

#2 CASENUT OFFLINE  

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Posted January 20, 2012 - 08:06 PM

Well you can try to get the next size allen in there and spin it out...next you can drill a hole with a drill stop of course and attempt to use an ez out, or you can wedge in the largest allen you can fit in there and give it a quick zap with a welder on a couple of sides and spin it out. if that doesn't work drill out the interior...cut new threads in the drain plug and put a bolt in there...my ideas...
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#3 mikebramel OFFLINE  

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Posted January 20, 2012 - 11:34 PM

I agree, a reverse tap would be the next option
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#4 DougT OFFLINE  

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Posted January 21, 2012 - 09:34 AM

If its pipe thread, try tightening it a little. The taper on a pipe thread will go in easier than it will come out. After it moves it should come right out. Can you weld a bolt head in the allen and use a nut on the bolt to turn it.
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#5 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted January 21, 2012 - 09:53 AM

Maybe you could try giving it a few wacks with a punch and then use an easy-out , if you don't have the short muti style ones you might have to grind the end down to get the correct fit on the longer style easy-outs , Al
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#6 kencombs OFFLINE  

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Posted January 26, 2012 - 12:41 PM

Try using a torx socket. find the closest size that won't quite go into the hex recess and then drive it in. The torx ridges should cut into the plug and maybe provide enough bite to get it out. Oh, and using a punch in the bottom of the hole first helps too, and don't spare the oomph when hitting the punch!
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#7 Twood OFFLINE  

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Posted February 04, 2012 - 02:19 PM

After several attempts myself and once from a person that bought some parts from my parts tractor it finally came out. What finally got it was putting PB Baster on it for 2 or 3 days while waiting for my new set of Snap On multi spline extractor set to come. The first two sizes slipped probably because I didn't drill the hole. The third time I drilled the proper size hole 11/32". I didn't drill all the way through the plug just deep enough for the extractor to get a good bite. With a big breaker bar and a lot of pressure it finally came loose. What a good feeling. That extractor set was well worth the money. Tried another set made in Taiwan but the edges broke off. Wish it was easier to buy good American made tools.:smile1:

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#8 Billygoat OFFLINE  

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Posted February 04, 2012 - 05:37 PM

I'm glad you got it out and even happier that you shared the solution with us. I couldn't offer any advice that hadn't already been posted. Snap-On is expensive, but less expensive than a cheaper tool that only serves to take up room in a toolbox because it doesn't work.

#9 CASENUT OFFLINE  

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Posted February 12, 2012 - 02:25 AM

I agree with the whole 'Snap On' concept, But infrequently do I run into stuff that HF tools 'won't work' in those instances, you just gotta 'pay the piper' and you end up with some quality stuff out of the deal!




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