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broke it!


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#16 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2012 - 11:38 AM

I just asked my tech teacher if I could use the drill press in the school shop and he said I could do it whenever I want to. Now I just need to get a bar and mark it.

#17 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2012 - 04:54 PM

Glad to hear you have secured the proper equipment. Good luck on the build, and take pics. :D

#18 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2012 - 05:18 PM

I think the little trailer axles are 3/4", and your shaft looks to be about that size. The trailer axles bend at times too, but are at least cold roll steel instead of hot roll, which your bent/broken pin is likely hot roll.

#19 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2012 - 05:23 PM

The axle is the same size, went and got it a little while ago. i would take pics but there isnt much to take pics of, just have to drill a few holes and put it on.

this is what broke, you can see it was partially broken before. the part on the foot board is the part that was sticking out and the part in the frame is the other half. it goes through the hole in that bar to the left and the R pin is were is broke.
Posted Image

#20 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2012 - 05:37 PM

If at all possible, do NOT drill the rod where this one broke. Pin it only on each end. I can't see all the workings, but I assume this rod doesn't power anything on it's other end? If not, I would just let the rod float, and the rocker arm that attaches to the cylinder can just float on the shaft. You can always add a grease fitting to the arm's pivot tube. That hole weakens the rod considerably.

#21 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2012 - 05:47 PM

I have to attach it to the rod. The rod lifts the deck so it has to be drilled there.

#22 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2012 - 07:36 PM

I have to attach it to the rod. The rod lifts the deck so it has to be drilled there.


There is a lot of stress developed there by the pushing of the rod as it turns it. If you could add more tube to the right end of the rocker arm, then put the pin on the outside, then the shaft will be a lot stronger.

#23 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2012 - 08:49 PM

There is a lot of stress developed there by the pushing of the rod as it turns it. If you could add more tube to the right end of the rocker arm, then put the pin on the outside, then the shaft will be a lot stronger.


good idea, thanks! Ill do that eventually, I dont have time to do it now. Its snowing now and hopefully I have school tomorrow, (sounds weird, right?) without the drill press I have no chance of drilling a straight hole. If it gets canceled and i cant drill it untill monday Ill do that.

#24 cookiemonster OFFLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2012 - 11:11 PM

Everybody's getting at the same point. Don't drill holes between the arm and the frame. It weakens the pin by a bunch.
Lowes or whatever store you hit may also have the 3/4 rod in cold rolled. Get it if you can.
Here's another idea which will also add some bulk to the shaft. Instead of using pins, use spacers between the frame and the lift arm. Like this...
Shop The Hillman Group 3/4" x 1" x 1-1/2" Steel Seamless Spacer at Lowes.com
It's 3/4" on the inside and 1" on the outside and will "sleave" your shaft. You'd have to measure the distance between the frame and lift arm to know how big and how many spacers to use. So, from the inside out of the shaft it would be... pin, through frame, sleave, through lift arm, pin.

#25 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2012 - 11:29 PM

I need all the holes im going to drill, if I didn't need them I wouldn't drill them. Ill see if I have a digram of it tomorrow, or maybe another power king owner can explain it better then I can.

#26 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted January 20, 2012 - 06:24 AM

In the parts manual for the older PKs have what looks to be some kind of spring/safety on the round lift rod for the snowplow , on my Jim Dandy the lift was about 2 1/2" x 5/16" stock but it had a little bend in it so it could flex I guess if it had to . Maybe if yours don't have the spring set-up after you make your repair you could change one of the lift bolts to brass or something so that breaks before anything else , just a thought , Al

#27 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 20, 2012 - 07:01 AM

Ryan, I borrowed your last pic. Is there any way this flat bar can be turned 180 degrees?
6727787913_9921e81e52_z.jpg

If so, then the R pin is to the outside, add a spacer to the inside to set it out from the frame the correct distance. Then you won't have that hole to the inside. Just a thought.

#28 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 20, 2012 - 09:41 AM

Alc, I think you might be talking about the lift assist spring. All that does it relief some strain on your arm if it has a manual lift. Mine has hydraulic lift so I don't need one of those.

Kenny, that makes it clear to me now. If I did flip it I would still need to drill the hole but I see how it would be less stressed. But I don't think its flippable, Ill have to look. Im going to just do it the factory way and then when I get some better stronger steel ill do it again.

#29 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 20, 2012 - 10:04 AM

Just a thought to keep in mind. From your pics, it looks to be pretty easy to flip. Or if you can weld a bushing to the outside to pin through instead of inside. Wouldn't have to be very long. Good luck with it.

#30 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted January 20, 2012 - 10:11 AM

Sorry you broke something.




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