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Different type of project


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#166 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 04, 2012 - 10:08 PM

I guess it might not be that weird, after a few cuts anybody could probably be used to it. Anyway, good job on the guard and handle!

#167 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2012 - 07:16 AM

Chris, what an awsome build! I need to find a few cubs and make something like that for myself, only I need at least 18" of ground clearance . That chop grinder is way cool, at home I use a 4-1/2 grinder and a Milwaukee metal cutting skilsaw for all the easy cuts, and it cuts steel like a wood version cuts wood .
Again , awsome job! :thumbs:
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#168 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2012 - 08:19 AM

I understand where your coming from and hopefully this will work out OK.
I did get to drive it around today and it seems to drive OK. I have to figure out how to increase the friction on the hydro linkage as the handle is very loose and it makes it hard to start moving forward without getting jumpy.
Made the grille and installed it. Worked on the head light but they are both burned out so will get replacements along with a new seat. I did find a set of slotted seat springs so the seat will be adjustable to make room for the head board. Still need to extend the tunnel cover and get the sideboards made. Have to get this thing done as more work arrived today.
Am I having fun yet? :dancingbanana:


Chris, nice build! I had similar problem with the 314 hydro. If there is slack anywhere in the linkage it will make it jerky stopping and starting. This may be the problem rather than friction to stop the lever from moving. I ended up having to repair a worn pin/clevis in the linkage at the hydro by drilling out an oval hole and using a larger pin. That solved the jerky starts and particularly stops that plagued the machine since I got it.
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#169 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2012 - 08:44 AM

I like your cut-off tool. Pretty neat rig. Glad it works for you.
I also agree with Brian, check your linkage for wear . Especially since it is all longer now.
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#170 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2012 - 04:28 PM

I had all the linkage apart yesterday afternoon and replaced the worn parts. Same issues. Something of interest came up though. Anyone familiar with the Cub hydro knows these things can be a little tough to get set right. Three different adjustments just at the hydro. When you step on the brake the hydro is suppose to go back to neutral. If I have this out of adjustment so the tractor creeps and you can hear the relief valve, then everything is smooth. If I have it set to set to not creep in neutral and the hydro is quiet then things get jerky on the start. Also at this setting if I let go of the control it goes to full forward or full reverse.
Any of you who has tried to back up an old 2 cylinder John Deere knows what I'm talking about. It is hard to control the hand clutch as your body wants to move in turn moving the clutch causing the tractor to jump. Never ever stand behind one of these tractors when the operator is backing up.
The control lever is very loose. Like in no resistance at all. I see there is a clinch bolt at the bottom of the vertical shaft and I'm going to see about doing something with that. First I will see how the one on the 129 is set. I redid the linkage on that one and it works just fine. Next is to post an inquiry in the Cub Cadet section.
Thanks for the suggestions.

#171 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2012 - 04:32 PM

I use a 4-1/2 grinder and a Milwaukee metal cutting skilsaw for all the easy cuts, and it cuts steel like a wood version cuts wood .

Does this saw use an abrasive wheel or a blade? I know both are available but have not tried the blade. I have also wonder about a diamond blade as the abrasive wheels are getting expensive.

#172 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2012 - 04:53 PM

At the bottom of the shifter rod there is a Allen headed bolt, in a arm. Under this arm on the bottom of the rod is a plastic bushing. The bushing is probably worn out and needs replacing. The only resistance is this clamp and bushing, there should also be a couple of washers on the bottom. Take the clamp off and check the bushing first, if it is bad or missing, replace and tighten the clamp on till the lever stays where you put it.

How are you adjusting the hydro linkage?
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#173 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2012 - 09:27 PM

Amigatec thanks for the information. That is the cinch bolt I was talking about. I will have to look and see what the bushing looks like. I have some material here to make another out of if necessary.

How are you adjusting the hydro linkage?

To get brake to center on neutral I take the two bolts loose on the front of the hydro that holds the brake cam to the hydro. This bracket is slotted. Snug the bolts just to where you can't move the bracket. For the next step you want to have the tractor parked away from anything or have the rear wheels off the ground. Set the park brake. Start the tractor and if it starts to move then tap the bracket up or down until the tractor stands in one place and you don't hear any growling from the hydro. Tighten the 2 bolts back up.
In some instances after the brake is released the control lever will not want to move. Make sure the brake pedal is all the way up. There is a short drag link down by the brake cam that you can lengthen to get the brake cam to release. If you want more forward or reverse you will have to lengthen or shorten the rod coming back from the hydro control.
Also if you have a problem with the hydro maintaining a constant speed there are springs used to tie the hydro control cam and control arm on the hydro. If these springs become loose in their slots then the slots need to be built up and sized so the the springs are a snug fit.
The procedures listed are based on my experiences and have worked for me. The names for these parts may not be correct but I know what I'm talking about even if you don't.:smilewink:

Edited by Cvans, February 05, 2012 - 09:33 PM.

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#174 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2012 - 05:04 AM

Chris, the saw is specifically designed to cut metal with a carbide toothed blade, and turns slower than a normal wood cutting version.
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#175 tinner OFFLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2012 - 12:16 AM

Missed the start and most of the build as we were on vacation but have read the entire thread now. Chris you have done a magnificent job on this build. Cant wait until spring when you get the whole thing painted. You are an inspiration.
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#176 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2012 - 12:46 AM

Thank you all for your kind words.
Today I remounted the seat so I now have room for the head board. Also fabricated the the four sides for the the bed. Used 2 x 2's for the stakes and car siding for the side boards. Tomorrow I get to replace a leaky water heater. Sure glad I caught that before it turned into a mess. Maybe tomorrow evening I will be able to post a couple more photos and then that will be about it until the rest is painted and new decals installed.

#177 bgkid2966 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2012 - 08:59 PM

You have done an awesome job! Thank you for sharing the build!!
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#178 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2012 - 06:06 PM

Looks like this project has come to a close for now. These photos are of the completed project except for some white paint and hopefully some front fenders. Both of those will happen when the weather warms.
Thanks for your interest and suggestions.
dumpster 005.jpg

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#179 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2012 - 06:17 PM

Looks Great! Nice job, if you were talking to somebody unfamiliar with cub cadets you could probably trick them into thinking it was factory!
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#180 tractorman604 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2012 - 06:24 PM

:beerchug::thumbs::yelclap::urock::smiley-score010::worshippy1::worshippy1::worshippy1: AWESOME JOB!!!
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