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53 Ridemaster -3


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#1 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted January 11, 2012 - 04:56 PM

Down to the little things that need to be taken care of before I can take it out for a test drive.
I'll be posting them on this thread over the next few days.


Originally, the choke and throttle cables both went behind the engine.
I had made up a conduit tube that ran from the dash box, down under the battery and pointed forward towards the engine.

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With the Kohler engine, both the choke and throttle cables need to be longer and both need to run under the engine.
I cut the end off the conduit so it now points down instead of forward.
The ( silver ) throttle cable is run in between the engine and the transmission.
The ( black ) choke cable runs all the way down under the transmission.

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The throttle cable comes out under the front of the engine and curves up so it can run straight back to the throttle governor arm.

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The choke cable comes out the side and runs straight up to the choke lever on the side of the carb.

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#2 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 11, 2012 - 05:57 PM

Good thinking on the throttle and choke. Should work just fine. With the extra HP, it should tote you folks around real good.
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#3 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted January 11, 2012 - 07:10 PM

Small step, but very important. Great work as usual.
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#4 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2012 - 02:54 PM

This engine has a cast iron elbow bolted on the exhaust that allowed the muffler to run across the back of the engine in the Ford.
Obviously, that isn't going to work here.

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The mounting bolts are rusted solid in the block so I heated up the area around each bolt and they both came out.
However .. part of the casting around outside of the top bolt broke out.
The exhaust port is also threaded on the inside so I'm just going to use a pipe style of exhaust instead of the flange style.

Here I'm running a 1-1/4 pipe tap in the hole to clean up the threads.

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This is a muffler that I had on my 16HP MTD 990 at one time and it screws right into the exhaust port.
I'm thinking I would like a quieter muffler for running around the tractor shows but this works fine for now.

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I got the wiring all re-done, then mounted the gas tank and took it out for a test drive.
She runs really good and has plenty of power now.
I would like it to be able to go just a little faster so I'm going to go back in and change the gear ratio between the back of the transmission and the Ridemaster drive.

Here are a couple of photos of her setting outside and running.

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#5 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2012 - 03:00 PM

That looks great Ray, except for one thing... where is the air cleaner? lol

Glad it now has the power you desire, great retrofit.
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#6 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2012 - 03:22 PM

That looks great Ray, except for one thing... where is the air cleaner?

This was only a test run ....
I'm not going to use the original flat round air cleaner that was on the engine.
This will have an air cleaner design that fits with the age of the Ridemaster so it will take a little time and thought to come up with something that will look correct and still fit on this carb.
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#7 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2012 - 03:54 PM

I see Ray. So mabey use the air cleaner you didn't use on the Shaw engine? or do you have another design in mind?
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#8 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2012 - 04:05 PM

I see Ray. So mabey use the air cleaner you didn't use on the Shaw engine? or do you have another design in mind?

I would like to use one of the offset style air cleaners that came on the Ridemasters but I'm not sure if it will have enough air flow ?
Another thing to consider is that the Ridemaster offset style air cleaner would set right about where the coil is right now so the coil would have to be re-located.
Nothing's ever simple when you start mixing parts around.

Edited by jdcrawler, January 12, 2012 - 04:20 PM.

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#9 caseguy OFFLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2012 - 04:17 PM

Great work Ray! I can't wait to see it with the paint and the air cleaner finished!
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#10 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2012 - 05:03 PM

Glad she got her test run in. Looks great. Fantastic job, Ray!
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#11 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2012 - 06:43 PM

I would like it to be able to go just a little faster so I'm going to go back in and change the gear ratio between the back of the transmission and the Ridemaster drive.


Nice work, Ray, as usual !!!

What are the pros & cons of changing the output ratio vs. speeding up the input of the hydrostat?

Thanks for your insight!
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#12 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2012 - 07:18 PM

What are the pros & cons of changing the output ratio vs. speeding up the input of the hydrostat?
Thanks for your insight!


Good question .. and one that I do not know the answer to.
To change the input ratio, all I have to do is change the pulley on the transmission or engine.
To change the output ratio, I have to pull the engine ( but that has to come off anyway for painting ), then I can remove the chain guard and change the sprocket size on the Ridemaster drive.

I already have the hydrostat overdriven a little.
The engine has a 4-1/2 inch pulley on it and the transmission has a 4 inch pulley.
I'm concerned that too high a RPM will harm the transmission.
If nothing else, I would think it would make it wear out faster.

Ok you hydrostat gurus, would speeding up the transmission be advisable ?
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#13 johnboggs21 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 13, 2012 - 04:15 PM

wouldnt spinning the input too fast make the fluid cavitate inside? I have no clue as to how hydros work, so I may be way off in my thinking
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#14 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted January 15, 2012 - 09:36 AM

My,that looks good ,Ray.
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#15 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted January 17, 2012 - 11:05 AM

After the the test drive, I took everything back off to get it ready for painting and to change the gearing.
Here's a photo of the drive system with the sprocket removed from the Ridemaster drive.

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I picked up a smaller diameter sprocket and center hub from TSC.

If I was better at math, I could just use the gear ratio of the Ridemaster and the diameter of the tires along with the diameter of the transmission sprocket and the engine RPM and figure to just what size sprocket I need for the speed I would like.
But I can't do that so I have to go be the trial and error method.
If this sprocket doesn't work well enough, then I'll put a larger sprocket on the transmission and see how that works.
Meanwhile, I'm hoping this sprocket works because I would have to take the engine back off to change the transmission sprocket.

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With the new sprocket welded to the hub, I added it to the parts to be painted and got everything primed.

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The engine is also primed.

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The front of the Ridemaster is masked up so it can be touched up.

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And then it was painted.

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The engine and the other parts were also painted today.

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