Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Ford lgt 165 front lights


  • Please log in to reply
52 replies to this topic

#16 whitelt120 OFFLINE  

whitelt120

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 5024
  • 17 Thanks
  • 119 posts
  • Location: Illinois

Posted January 17, 2012 - 05:51 PM

Yah alot of my tractors need new seats I'm amased that the one on this ford is this good. I'm having alot of trouble with it my carb needs alot of work and for some reason it won't turn over unless I connect a wire from a possitive terminal on the battery to the possitive terminal on the coil.

#17 KennyP ONLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 28,467 Thanks
  • 39,701 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted January 17, 2012 - 06:22 PM

That sounds like you are not getting 12 volts to the switch/corroded connection. When you hook the wire to the coil, the power is back feeding to the switch.
  • whitelt120 said thank you

#18 whitelt120 OFFLINE  

whitelt120

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 5024
  • 17 Thanks
  • 119 posts
  • Location: Illinois

Posted January 17, 2012 - 06:45 PM

My ignition switch is new but could it possibly be in the connector or the pto switch its seems like everything runs through that switch. Any ideas on how to fix this?

#19 KennyP ONLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 28,467 Thanks
  • 39,701 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted January 17, 2012 - 08:19 PM

Have you got a voltmeter/test light you can hook to the switch to see if it is getting 12 V? You may have to have help, as you will have to turn the switch to start to see if it is working. I would take the starter cable off, just to be safe. One thing you might try first is while starting, wiggle the hi/lo lever. It may not be in just the right spot to let it start. I just remembered I had that problem with mine. Had to adjust the switch there for neutral.
  • whitelt120 said thank you

#20 whitelt120 OFFLINE  

whitelt120

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 5024
  • 17 Thanks
  • 119 posts
  • Location: Illinois

Posted January 18, 2012 - 12:03 PM

Thanks for the help Kenny I'll check it out when I get home from school. Ill let you what happens.

#21 whitelt120 OFFLINE  

whitelt120

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 5024
  • 17 Thanks
  • 119 posts
  • Location: Illinois

Posted January 19, 2012 - 08:14 PM

Well I got underneath it and checked the safety switch and made shure it was pushed in but it still wouldn't turn over or even get power to anything. Also where or how should i connect the test light to the switch? Thanks

#22 whitelt120 OFFLINE  

whitelt120

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 5024
  • 17 Thanks
  • 119 posts
  • Location: Illinois

Posted January 19, 2012 - 10:10 PM

I went through and checked all the fuse and they could be my problem none of them were blown, but the one housing was pretty bad so I replace them as well.

#23 firstgen89sho OFFLINE  

firstgen89sho

    New Member

  • Member
  • Member No: 4764
  • 82 Thanks
  • 90 posts
  • Location: Lloydminster SK

Posted January 19, 2012 - 10:58 PM

these are the lenses that I picked up for my 165, as they are the same

Gary's Place

http://www.mytractor...=1&d=1312476191
  • Texas Deere and Horse, KennyP and whitelt120 have said thanks

#24 KennyP ONLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 28,467 Thanks
  • 39,701 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted January 20, 2012 - 08:04 AM

That's where those were! Thanks for reminding me.
Nathan, you should have power to the switch at the B terminal. If no power there, then clean connections at the battery side of the solenoid and both the amp gauge. When you turn to start, the S terminal should get power. This feeds thru the PTO switch (two white wires), which should be off. Then thru the neutral switch to the solenoid.
On mine, I wasn't getting power thru the PTO switch. Changed it out, adjusted the neutral switch and things started working again.
  • whitelt120 said thank you

#25 whitelt120 OFFLINE  

whitelt120

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 5024
  • 17 Thanks
  • 119 posts
  • Location: Illinois

Posted January 20, 2012 - 10:28 PM

I worked on it all night and and got no where. I checked and fallowed all the wires, checked the connections cleaned connectors, checked the fuses and nothing happened. I did what you said and I think it lit up, but I can't remember.

#26 whitelt120 OFFLINE  

whitelt120

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 5024
  • 17 Thanks
  • 119 posts
  • Location: Illinois

Posted January 21, 2012 - 11:25 AM

When i connected the b terminal to the s terminal the test light lit up, But it even did it when the key was turned off.
I believe I need a new pto swiych and that would solve my problems.

Edited by whitelt120, January 21, 2012 - 11:39 AM.


#27 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

skyrydr2

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 5032
  • 3,418 Thanks
  • 3,164 posts
  • Location: Gardner, Massachusetts!

Posted January 21, 2012 - 12:40 PM

Did you see if that switch was put in upside down ? What you need to do is find the white wire from the ignition switch to the pto switch, cut it, then find the white wire to the starter solinoid and attach the 2 together and bypass all the safety switches, be sure you can put it all back once you get it running. So you can find the issue with the safety crap.
  • whitelt120 said thank you

#28 whitelt120 OFFLINE  

whitelt120

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 5024
  • 17 Thanks
  • 119 posts
  • Location: Illinois

Posted January 21, 2012 - 02:38 PM

Did you see if that switch was put in upside down ? What you need to do is find the white wire from the ignition switch to the pto switch, cut it, then find the white wire to the starter solinoid and attach the 2 together and bypass all the safety switches, be sure you can put it all back once you get it running. So you can find the issue with the safety crap.


Well I did what you said and nothing still happened :confuse:.
GEDC0908.jpg


GEDC0910.jpg

ignition switch pto switch and the wire I cut based on the wire diagram Kenny showed me

Attached Thumbnails

  • GEDC0906.jpg
  • GEDC0909.jpg


#29 KennyP ONLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 28,467 Thanks
  • 39,701 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted January 21, 2012 - 03:38 PM

There should be no light on between B & S when the switch is off.

#30 whitelt120 OFFLINE  

whitelt120

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 5024
  • 17 Thanks
  • 119 posts
  • Location: Illinois

Posted January 21, 2012 - 03:52 PM

I decided to make a video to maybe help explain what im dealing with better





Top