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53 Ridemaster -1


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#1 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2012 - 04:48 PM

First off, the shaft coming out of the back of the engine has to be shortened.

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The engine is set in place so I can see how it is going to line up and how much clearance it will have.
You can see here why the rear shaft had to be shortened.

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In preparation for mounting the oil pan, the dipper had to be shortened.
However, the dipstick did not have to be shortened because it only goes in far enough to read the oil level for "add" and "full".

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I plugged the drain hole in the bottom of the pan and cut the plug off flush with outside of the pan surface.
Then a drain hole was drilled and tapped into the side of the oil pan.

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The oil pan is mounted on the engine.

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It turns out that mounting this engine is going to be a lot easier than I had originally thought.
The oil pan will set right on the frame rails that the Wisconsin engine had bolted to.

The only difference is that the mounting bolt holes have to be moved.
The engine mounting frame is split on one side so the front section can be removed in order to get the transmission out.
This section is held together with two bolts.
The front hole is bolted thru the top of the frame and the rear hole was bolted thru the engine mount.

On this engine the mounting is just reversed.
The front bolt hole lines with the engine mount and the rear one will get bolted thru the top of the frame.
The rear bolt head can't set much above the surface of the frame or it will hit the head of the bolt that holds the pan on the engine.

I counter-bored the rear bolt hole so it can rake a flathead allen bolt.

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The flathead allen bolt is screwed in place and then I drilled the front hole out so a bolt can come up thru from underneath to bolt into the oil pan.

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Here is the engine set in place and the one mount is bolted to the frame from underneath.
There is about 1/8 clearance between the flathead bolt and the oil pan bolt.

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The back of the engine clears the Ridemaster frame about the same amount as the Wisconsin engine did.

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On the other side of the engine, you can see how nicely the engine fits on the mounting frame.
I still have to drill the other three mounting holet in the frame rails.

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This engine sets out fron a little bit farther than the Wisconsin engine did.
I'm going to have to move the transmission pulley out some.
I may also have to modify the drive shaft on the engine so the drive pulley will set closer the engine.

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Here are a couple of photos of the front so far.

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#2 powerking56 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2012 - 04:58 PM

Ray, Glad things are coming together, looks like it will work out fine.
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#3 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2012 - 06:54 PM

Ray, that is an excellent fit for that ridemaster. Glad you were able to figure out the oil pan.
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#4 caseguy OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2012 - 07:35 PM

Cool another build thread! I was starting to go through withdrawal! Great looking retro-fit Ray!
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#5 tinner OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2012 - 10:36 PM

Looking good thanks for the details and pictures.
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#6 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2012 - 06:22 AM

WooHoo! Here we go again. Thanks for all the great pics and narrative. Seems like I'm right there with you. That looks real cool sitting on there.
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#7 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2012 - 09:12 AM

Yes,another great build coming on.:thumbs:
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#8 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2012 - 09:16 AM

Deciding on what engine to get for this swap was a little bit of a challenge.
There were five main things to consider:

1- I felt that it needed to be a 12 or 14 HP to have enough power to drive the hydro transmission and move the cart with two people riding on it.

2- The engine had to be close to the same size as the Wisconsin engine was so I wouldn't have to completely rework the front of the Ridemaster.
Luckily, the old Wisconsin engines were big engines for what little horsepower they had.

3- The engine had to be able to have a drive shaft on the front to run power down to the transmission.
This ruled out a lot of engines right away.

4- I wanted the design of the engine to look like the old Wisconsin engines.

5- I would the carb and exhaust to be on the same side of the engine as it was on the Wisconsin engine.


This Kohler engine has met all the requirements that I was looking for plus a bonus.
Initially, I thought the base of the engine would be sticking out about a inch on either side of the mounting frame.
I didn't know that Kohler made two different widths of oil pans and it was just a lucky pick that I ended up with the smaller pan.

Edited by jdcrawler, January 07, 2012 - 09:25 AM.

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#9 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2012 - 09:37 AM

Ray, thanks for the explanation of the requirements. After seeing the pics, that makes it all come together. I always seem to learn something from following your build threads.
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#10 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2012 - 09:35 AM

I was asked earlier about the PTO and the sleeve hitch and I told them that I was planing on taking the ford all apart and selling the parts on ebay in the spring.
I've received a couple more emails about selling parts so I have decided to to offer parts for sale to members now but I can't send photos thru the forum email reply.

I don't know what the value is for parts off a tractor like this so I'm going to ask you to offer me a fair price for them and they are yours without any counteroffer.
If you are interested in other parts off this Ford, email me at: jdcrawler@yahoo.com and I can send photos back to your email address.
If you give me your ZIP, I can tell you the shipping cost.



The PTO will be sold as a complete unit that includes the PTO shaft and mounting brackets, electric clutch, V-belt with belt tension pulley, brackets and tension spring.
The rear of the PTO shaft is 3/4 inch diameter with a keyway and lock pin hole.

Here are a couple of photos of the PTO and of the rear sleeve hitch.

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#11 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2012 - 06:56 PM

Well this didn't take long.
A guy from down state has made a good offer for what's left of the tractor and said he can pick it all up in two or three weeks.




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