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Snapper/MF 1650 Ross steering rebuild help.


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#1 coldone OFFLINE  

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Posted January 02, 2012 - 11:02 PM

Well I finally found out why the steering was a such a bear in the 1650. The little grease that was still in there from 1980 something was hard as a rock and the lower bearings were shot. Not to mention the pivot pin is totally flat on two sides. So now i have to locate parts for rebuilding it. i found a guy on ebay that has the rebuild kit for $100+. I think thats a little high for a few bearings and a pivot pin. So I was hoping my GTT family would have some insight as to what parts i need and where to get them. I need it to be an internet supplier as actually having time to go get parts is almost impossible now days for me. I have found a few threads talking about JD still having the parts but that there is a difference wit some of the boxes in that the shaft is a different size between some of the models. Hopefully somebody here can set me straight on what i need.



PS. Anybody got an extra steering wheel?
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#2 coldone OFFLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2012 - 11:47 AM

I think I found the bearings that I need. Cub Cadet used ross columns as well so I tracked down IH-71930-C91 as the rebuild kit for the column. It has both the upper and lower bearings.

Got it from this place
http://www.factorydi...90-B/0031900005

Total was $15.53 including $4.99s&h
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#3 coldone OFFLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2012 - 04:01 PM

The number from the Agcoparts book is 1044861M91. When I called my dealer he said that they had changed it and the cost for the 2 bearings and 2 cups would be $80+. I hope these work.
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#4 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2012 - 07:46 PM

Jack's small engines list that for $7.20 - Jacks Small Engines Search
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#5 coldone OFFLINE  

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Posted January 15, 2012 - 11:31 PM

The Cub cadet parts fit perfect! It took a little while to get the end screw out. It was frozen, so a little oil and some tapping the circumference with a hammer loosened it so that i could unscrew it. What grease there was inside was dry and hard and not much. It must have been the original grease. I scraped out what i could find and cleaned out the corrosion that was in there. The bearing balls were nothing but rust and pits, the seats werent much better. I disassembled it and laid it out on the table for a few pics.
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Next was a test fit of the bearing and cages.
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They fit great so onto the cups. I had no idea how to get this one out. It was pressed in flush so there was nothing to grip. The end cap is cast aluminum so not much digging and prying is allowed.
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I tried heating it up over the heater and throwing it in water to see if it could lossen up some of the corrosion, no luck in that. Then i remembered, from another thread, that jdcrawler had talked about using grease and a dowel rod to hydraulically press out blind bearings. So i loaded up the indention under the cup with grease. I found that the big end of a 3/8 socket extension would fit into the hole pretty snugly, so I filled up the hole in it to and proceeded to push out the cup.

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The upper cup gave me a little more problems. It seems that there is a lip that the cup sits on. It would be on the tubing side of the steering gear. I did not know that this lip was only slightly smaller than the cup. So i proceeded to find a socket that would fit into the tubing so that I could push the cup out. Without knowing about the lip, i used the socket that was just small enough to fit inside the tubing. I added extensions so that they would be long enough to fit down the tubing and still give me something to beat on. So I started beating, something didn't feel right but i thought that it was just the cup frozen into the housing. After it finally broke free, I found out what wasn't feeling right, the cast aluminum lip! As it turns out this didn't do major damage and the new cup seats just fine without the lip. You just have to give the end cap another turn or two to take out the slack.

With the bearings fitting, it will be onto the adjustment stud. Thats for another day.
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#6 ducky ONLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2012 - 09:58 AM

Thanks Coldone.
That is great info on rebuilding the Ross steering gear.
I am converting to a "Sticky" for others to enjoy.
It will be in the General Tractor Forum as this steering box is used on more than just Masseys.
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#7 coldone OFFLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2012 - 08:28 PM

In some of the other places that I was reading on how to rebuild the steering, they were talking about adding a bearing in place of the bushing at the top of the steering tubing. It just so happened that I had one of these old bearings laying around. It is the lipped wheel bearing out of one of the front rims of my 1650. The Inside diameter is correct for the steering rod, the OD is slightly smaller than the tubing. I used a thin layer of JB putty to act as a spacer. It fits well and seems to help ease the steering.

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#8 coldone OFFLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2012 - 08:41 PM

Just wanted to upload the first set of pics to GTT since this was made into a sticky. The originals are on Photobucket and sometimes i delete old pics without thinking.
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#9 coldone OFFLINE  

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Posted January 24, 2012 - 10:05 PM

My cam follower stud is no longer round. After years of metal to metal wear it has developed two severe flat spots. While crusing on ebay to see what they had I ran across a posting for a handmade cam follower and a set of replacement bearing balls. They were advertised as being for a Cub, JD ross steering box. I contacted the seller (timarca) to see if i could just get the follower since I had just replaced my bearings. He said yes and even lowered the price. The cam follower arrived yesterday and it is a beutifully made piece. He really did it right. I rushed out to the shop only to find out that Ross made different size cam followers and this one is too small. The cub uses a 1/2 inch where the MF uses a 9/16. I contacted timarca and asked if he had any of the bigger ones and if we could work something out. (I had already left him positive feedback, it was my mistake in assuming they were all the same size) He responded and said he had the 9/16 and would ship it out the next day. He also said that he had not listed them yet but was going to in the near future.

I just wanted to give the guy TWO THUMBS UP for his customer service!!!

timarca price for the kit with the cam follower and replacement balls is only $12.50 + $2.50 shipping. Thats $10 less than cheapest price I could find for just the cam follower.

Here are some pics of his handmade follower and my old one. This is the 1/2 inch sized one but still great work that needs to be recognized.

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#10 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted January 24, 2012 - 10:13 PM

WOW, What a GREAT rebuild thread!!!! Thanks Coldone for sharing, it will help several guys here.:thumbs::thumbs::thumbs:

#11 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 26, 2012 - 07:17 AM

Thanks for all the info in this thread. That's something I must do one of these days and now have the confidence by following your posts. Thanks for the info on the cam follower and bearings from timarca. Nice to know.

#12 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted January 27, 2012 - 08:54 PM

PS. Anybody got an extra steering wheel?


as a matter of fact. I think it was a 1650 i scrapped. I kept the dash tower column and front axle. Ill check if you still need the steering wheel.

#13 coldone OFFLINE  

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Posted January 27, 2012 - 10:09 PM

Still need one. thanks for checking.

#14 coldone OFFLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2012 - 08:39 AM

The correct size cam follower arrived yesterday in the mail. Its size is 9/16 by 18tpi. I really like the quality of timaraca work. I hope to get it installed today and make some more progress on the 1650.

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#15 tinner OFFLINE  

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Posted February 23, 2012 - 06:10 PM

This is some great information. Thanks for posting all the pictures etc.




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