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New To Me Allis 620


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#46 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2012 - 07:38 PM

Ran into problems. The electric fuel pump that was on it quit. So I put one from another tractor I have & it ran a while & it's shot now. I think something is wrong with the charge system somehow. I heard the battery bubbling after shutting it off, so I'm wondering now if the rectifier isn't working & it's running AC voltage to the battery & blowing $86 worth of fuel pumps!! The amp meter makes it appear everything is fine, charging at about 12 amps, but for 2 pumps to go shot, must be something going on. I do have one good mechanical pump, so I'm putting it on tomorrow & unhooking the stator for the time being & running total loss ignition till I have time to figure this all out. PLUS, I have another problem. The pickup tube was soldered into the tank, and has broken loose. I'll try to get a driving video tomorrow, but this tank has to come off for repair.

#47 Alc OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2012 - 07:53 PM

Sorry to hear about the fuel pumps , could it be a low voltage problem at the pump ? Al

#48 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2012 - 08:45 PM

Sorry to hear about the fuel pumps , could it be a low voltage problem at the pump ? Al


No, as I connected both direct to the battery, and neither run. These have a electronic circuit boards inside them, and I'm figuring high voltage got them. Once I get the tractor running with the mechanical pump, I'll check the voltage. May show correct amps, while having huge spikes in the voltage, which would kill the pumps.

#49 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2012 - 10:23 PM

Daniel, well built circuit boards usually have fuses, Metal Oxide Varistors or Zener Diodes on them as protection from high voltage. These boards may be salvageable or you may be able to have them rebuilt. Are there any designations on them (board #'s, manufacturers, etc) ?

#50 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2012 - 10:26 PM

Daniel, well built circuit boards usually have fuses, Metal Oxide Varistors or Zener Diodes on them as protection from high voltage. These boards may be salvageable or you may be able to have them rebuilt. Are there any designations on them (board #'s, manufacturers, etc) ?


Tiny little boards inside the pump, and sealed in what looks to be epoxy. Not repairable I'm afraid.

#51 Alc OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2012 - 09:24 AM

Now you have me wondering why there is a circuit board in the pump :confuse: Could it be some type of internal shut off when the power is supplied when the engine isn't running , I'm guessing there isn't a fuel return like they use on cars . Al

#52 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2012 - 09:56 AM

Now you have me wondering why there is a circuit board in the pump :confuse: Could it be some type of internal shut off when the power is supplied when the engine isn't running , I'm guessing there isn't a fuel return like they use on cars . Al


These are 2 different make pumps, but both are impulse type, where a spring loaded piston bounces back & forth, with a passage with check valve in it's center allowing gas to be pumped through. In the olden days, there was a set of electrical contacts inside, & when the spring pushed the piston back, it connected the contacts, then the magnetic solenoid engaged, pulling the piston back against the spring. I never had one burn out unless the contacts plain worn out. Now, instead of contacts, it used electronics to pulse the solenoid. Thus the sensitivity to high voltage.
I just got through installing the mechanical pump & running a voltage test. It spikes at times to 17.5 volts. Any of you electrical buffs know if this would cause my problems burning out pumps? Most of the time it sits right on 14.46 volts though. I'm sticking with mechanical on this one!

#53 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2012 - 09:59 AM

She still has things needing attention, but she's driving! She runs pretty darned good!


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#54 ducky OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2012 - 10:05 AM

I just got through installing the mechanical pump & running a voltage test. It spikes at times to 17.5 volts. Any of you electrical buffs know if this would cause my problems burning out pumps? Most of the time it sits right on 14.46 volts though. I'm sticking with mechanical on this one!


You should be ok at 14.5 but it will not like 17 volts for long.

#55 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2012 - 10:15 AM

Great seeing it moving, cute doggy too. Hope you get the voltage spikes figured out. When it comes to electronics, I'm at a total loss.

#56 Alc OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2012 - 10:49 AM

Thanks for the pump description , now I have a better understanding of the different types of pumps , Al :thumbs:

#57 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2012 - 11:14 AM

Definitely a charge issue going on. Went to drive it to Fred's, and she started loading up, then died. I unhooked the regulator & rectifier, going total loss ignition, and she' runs perfect as long as you want to drive. A friend has his equipped with a small car alternator because of the issues these systems have, and when they have stator issues, the engine must be pulled. I will be looking for a small alternator now.

#58 mikebramel OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2012 - 01:01 PM

Onan Systems
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#59 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2012 - 01:50 PM

Thanks Mike! I saved that info. I had already planned to check the ground to the regulator 1st. Could be it's just losing it's ground, allowing full charge at times. Now I have info to test all components!

#60 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2012 - 03:50 PM

Thanks for the video Daniel. Seeing you actually driving it shows how large those 620's are. Pretty big GT! Looks like the hydro is strong. For a minute there I thought you were going to do some donuts for us!




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