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Trying to get a pull start Briggs 5hp going.


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#16 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted December 27, 2011 - 07:25 PM

That is one you do not see to often. Can not tell you how it happen unless there is a metallurgy problem with the retainer or the valve stem to allow them to wear. Save to replace both = no rework. LOL


I agree they are both getting replaced. Now the question is do we play nice guy and lap the valves while we are at it. I guess I will have to lap at least the exhaust valve since we are putting a new one in there.

#17 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted December 27, 2011 - 07:28 PM

I think I would do both valves.
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#18 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 27, 2011 - 07:36 PM

Wow, that is odd, as for spring compressors, all the ones I have are 40+ yrs old and probably NLA.
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#19 ducky OFFLINE  

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Posted December 27, 2011 - 07:49 PM

Yes will have to do the exhaust valve as part of the job and play the intake as you see it. My want to replace both if the gentleman is going to put hours on the motor. The only thing that bothers me is you see some scratches in the bore. This could indicate broken ring or just a piece of carbon was running around at one time or another. How much ridge does the cylinder wall have? That is a good indication of the hours on the engine and the care it has had. Just make sure to explain to the gentleman all his option and let him make the call.

I think this is a person that may appreciate your help, but I have told people I would patch something for them just to get them going for a time and then find I was being as to give them there money back when it did give up the ghost. I'm just paranoid right now.
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#20 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted December 27, 2011 - 08:05 PM

Bad thing is he could have bought a new engine for about $50 more then what he is going to have in parts on this one. I am only going to do the one valve for now to save him some money and let him know about the cylinder wear. The marks on the cylinder are basically just shiny lines, I am sure there is some wear but not enough to really concern.

#21 ducky OFFLINE  

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Posted December 27, 2011 - 08:17 PM

Yea that is a really bugger when that happens. It just seems to be part of the troubleshooting tree to get to the root cause and then find a new engine is about the same money.
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#22 caseguy OFFLINE  

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Posted December 27, 2011 - 08:21 PM

Glad that you found the problem George! I just wanted to add that I have an older lawn vac that has a 5 HP Tecumseh on it. The impeller that moves the air from the scoop to the chute is a cast thing with quite a bit of weight to it. When the impeller is installed it starts very easily, but without it, it is a real bear to start. It certainly spins faster with it on. Just a thought for when you get it back together.
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#23 ducky OFFLINE  

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Posted December 27, 2011 - 08:25 PM

Glad that you found the problem George! I just wanted to add that I have an older lawn vac that has a 5 HP Tecumseh on it. The impeller that moves the air from the scoop to the chute is a cast thing with quite a bit of weight to it. When the impeller is installed it starts very easily, but without it, it is a real bear to start. It certainly spins faster with it on. Just a thought for when you get it back together.


That is something to take into consideration that did not dawn on me.

#24 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted December 27, 2011 - 08:28 PM

Without going back to see what this engine is mounted on, if it spun a blade or impeller directly on the end of the crank, it's near impossible to start without the part connected to the crank to serve as flywheel effect. Engines on these applications have such light flywheels they don't have the inertia to run without the added weight. A push mower with the blade removed will tear your shoulder loose if you try to pull start it! That said, your valve keeper coming loose is definitely the problem in this case.
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#25 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted December 27, 2011 - 08:33 PM

The blower has been hooked up this whole time. They have the impeller welded to the crankshaft so I couldn't remove it easily and left it on. We are going to try and get the parts for it tomorrow. If not like dad said he won't have it till next year LOL.

#26 jdslednut OFFLINE  

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Posted December 27, 2011 - 09:30 PM

I'm assuming by the model number that this is a horizontal shaft motor. It should probably have a cast flywheel which is more than enough inertia for these little engines. Most of the ones I have worked on or had students work on are cast but they are mostly older so I don't know if they switched to aluminum on the "newer" ones. If so, then yeah, according to the OEM ordered specs it could be aluminum if ordered to power something with a heavy rotating weight. While you're this far, I would just take it apart and check the ring gaps as well. You'll need a head gasket anyway so why not grab a pan gasket while you're at it. I've found the best spring compressor is the one from Briggs #19063
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#27 ducky OFFLINE  

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Posted December 27, 2011 - 11:12 PM

Thanks jdslednut, I totally forgot to tell George about the valve spring compressor. The one you mentioned was a mandatory tool as a Briggs dealer back in my day. Best I have ever used. Now if I could remember where I hide that sucker.

#28 jdslednut OFFLINE  

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Posted December 28, 2011 - 12:25 AM

Thanks jdslednut, I totally forgot to tell George about the valve spring compressor. The one you mentioned was a mandatory tool as a Briggs dealer back in my day. Best I have ever used. Now if I could remember where I hide that sucker.


Look under your compression tester and ring expanders. That's where mine usually hides. :confuse:

#29 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2011 - 09:33 AM

I figured I would post an update. We are waiting for the spring compressor to come in at Napa. We got the Briggs style. Once I get the old valve out I will take some better pictures and get them posted.

#30 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2012 - 11:12 AM

We got the valve spring compressor but are waiting for the valve and retainers to get here which should be Monday.

While I am thinking about it, does anyone know what the clearances are supposed to be on this engine? If not I will do some digging and see if I can find it.




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