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#31 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 26, 2013 - 08:44 PM

Well I see the whole summer has passed since I did anything significant to this tractor.  Now I'm trying to get ready for a plow day this weekend, so need to do more fine tuning.  As a mower, this tractor really didn't need for the deck lift to work.  Now that I want to plow with it, the thumb release needs to hold properly.  Since MH81 had told me the thumb button screws on, I knew how to get it off.  Using another tip from this site, I heated the thumb knob red hot a couple of times with my Oxy Acetylene torch.  After that, it was fairly easy to twist the button off and remove the broken rusted original spring.  After some searching in some different stores, I found one that would work, so everything went back together today.

GE 001.JPG GE 002.JPG GE 003.JPG

 

I've also had several times when fluid spilled out of the hydro transmission breather tube.  I first saw it last summer when I filled the transmission, then drove about a mile to take care of a church member's lawn so she didn't have to mow it.  It would start overflowing and leave a trail behind me on the road.  After the second time , I figured I must have been overfilling it and that seemed to be an end to it, until this summer.  I was mowing another neighbor's yard, and it started spitting oil again.  So I decided I wanted to add an overflow tank.

 

After stopping in a few auto parts places, I found a generic radiator overflow tank that looked like it would work, and it fit into the spot left vacant by the old fuel tank.  My son and I ran tubing from the overflow tank down to the breather tube and connected it.  I also wondered if part of the problem with the oil spitting and overflowing from time to time might be due to contaminants in the oil, so I drained the hydro reservoir and refilled it.  I'll probably order a new filter and install that sometime over the winter, so that will be a second drain and fill, so it should get rid of any contaminants lurking in the system.  

 

GE 005.JPG GE 004.JPG

 

One of the last jobs to be done before plow day is adding some weight to this tractor.  I salvaged some weights years ago that were left in an apartment after someone moved out.  Turns out the 15 Kg weight plate is just the right size to sit in the rim.  I was able to drill two mounting holes while I got the charcoal grill lit and before I had to put on the burgers.  Hope to drill the second one and mount both tomorrow.  That should leave just the need from front weights and I have an idea on how to get that done quickly.

 

 


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#32 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted September 26, 2013 - 08:54 PM

I want to see pictures of it throwing the dirt this weekend.  Good Job and have fun.


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#33 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted September 26, 2013 - 09:37 PM

Howard, glad to hear its coming together. It will depend on the soil and the plow, but you may not need the front weight.

#34 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 27, 2013 - 07:41 PM

Spent some time working with this tractor today.  Got a 25 lb. plate mounted on the front of the tractor, also mounted several barbell weight plates on the rear wheels, I had scavenged an old set of weight plates from a vacant apartment.  The metal was mild enough to drill easily, just needed sharp drill bits and plenty of oil.  I put a 33 lb weight on the right side that goes in the furrow, though I'm thinking it may not be needed, and a 33 + 25 lb weight plates on the left.  Got two videos from my garden, and just with turfs it is doing ok.  These turfs ARE filled with water though.  Got a bit of video after I was done too.

 

https://www.youtube....Z1or5U9TyqoAgqg

 

https://www.youtube....Z1or5U9TyqoAgqg


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#35 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted September 27, 2013 - 07:45 PM

Just in case conditions are tougher or there is a little more moisture... You might want to do the chains anyways.

#36 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 27, 2013 - 07:48 PM

Yep, got the chains, but I never load a tractor with chains on.  Had an experience once with the chains just slipping on the ramps.  So now it is only bare rubber to load.  I'll put the chains on after we arrive and unload.


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#37 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2013 - 04:23 PM

Just a little "After Action Report" here.  The transmission overflow tank worked fairly well, taking care of at least two problems I wanted fixed.  First, I could see the trans fluid level rise in the tank once the transmission got hot.  Secondly, the oil level fell pretty dramatically after things cooled off, ending up about 3/4 inch below the start level in the tank, which tells me that some or all of the air remaining in the transmission from the oil change got flushed.  The down side, the mouth of the tank seems poorly designed, with a cup which hold any liquid sloshed into it, and no way to drain back into the tank.  It wasn't bad, but there was most certainly a bit of leakage out of the tank due  to the design.

 

Second, more wheel weight could be helpful.  I'm not really sure about that one.  I don't recall having trouble with traction on the few times I was able to drive this tractor, and my oldest boy seemed to manage Ok too.  However, the youngest boy had multiple wheel spins, and seemed to have difficulty keeping the front of the tractor in the furrow.  Some of that did seem to go away as he learned what needed to be done.  Still, this tractor is the one with the Predator engine and I think it is about 20 lbs lighter than the old Tecumseh, so putting 25 lbs up front is just restoring the normal weight.

 

Third, much to my surprise, if I began pulling up on the lift lever while I was still moving, the plow would go ahead and lift out of the furrow.  In my garden, I don't have room to move beyond the garden, so I move forward as far a possible, then have to back up to get the soil off the plow so it can be lifted.  I think a good helper spring on here would make this set up almost as easy to use as a hydraulic lift but without the complication.

 

I posted elsewhere on the question of wheel width.  I still want to try a wider track, I think it will help with how far the tractor tilts toward the furrow.  Just didn't have time to do everything before plow day.


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#38 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2013 - 04:35 PM

Ooopss!!  Forgot about one change that was made to reduce wheel slip.  I ended up adjusting the width of the plow bite down to the minimum I could adjust it for.  It certainly made it less likely for the tractor to slip, but it was cutting a narrow slice.  However, better to have fun cutting a narrow slice at a nice depth than being frustrated in some areas because a wider cut caused wheel spin.  I think most of the other tractors out there at the plow day had some wheel spin, especially where the land was sloped upward.


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#39 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted October 02, 2013 - 02:37 PM

On your video it looks like your cutting wheel in front of the plow is not low enough. It looks like its riding high above the ground. I also don't see any stop bolts to adjust on your hitch to keep your plow from going side to side. Thanks for not chopping up the metal to get your clone in...it turned out well. Enjoying your project.  :thumbs:


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#40 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 02, 2013 - 02:49 PM

On your video it looks like your cutting wheel in front of the plow is not low enough. It looks like its riding high above the ground. I also don't see any stop bolts to adjust on your hitch to keep your plow from going side to side. Thanks for not chopping up the metal to get your clone in...it turned out well. Enjoying your project.  :thumbs:

I think on the plow you are supposed to leave some slack to allow the plow to find it's own track behind the tractor.  Also, that is a home made hitch and there isn't a lot of play for the plow to move anyway, so I haven't bothered to put bolts in yet.  


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#41 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted October 02, 2013 - 06:06 PM

I think on the plow you are supposed to leave some slack to allow the plow to find it's own track behind the tractor.  Also, that is a home made hitch and there isn't a lot of play for the plow to move anyway, so I haven't bothered to put bolts in yet.


In theory , a properly adjusted Brinly plow will not need much restriction from the bolts. The first one I set up I fought with hard and I ended up trying to lock it where I wanted it but it pulled pretty hard.
I adjusted the plow on the beam as per the directions, released the bolts and it pulled much much easier.

#42 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 08, 2013 - 01:54 PM

Got the deck back on this tractor and spent an hour or so mowing.  The hydro was probably good and warm as the temps were near 90 at that time.  When I parked, the overflow tank had about 1/2 inch, perhaps a cup's worth, of extra liquid in it.  I'm sold on the overflow tank theory and design now!  This would have been 1/2 cup dribbling out of my trans, or I would have been running around 1/2 cup low till the next time I filled up.


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#43 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2014 - 05:47 PM

Today was a welcome change from the routine I've been keeping for the last few months.  Around the end of November I had to shift into full time study mode to prepare for end of semester exams, then continued to study hard so I could be prepared for a technical certification exam before starting school again full time in early January.  Today I had all my schoolwork finished and no pressing chores so I spent some time working on this Dump Massey!

 

     First thing I wanted to accomplish was to install a helper spring for the "Armstrong" lift.  I ended up bolting a strip of steel to the lift handle and attaching a spring toward the front axle, so the spring helps pull the lever back.  That worked well enough to just about off-set the weight of the mower deck, so I think the kids ought to be Ok plowing with that, especially the older boy, who has been exercising and doing some weight lifting.

 

The second goal I wanted to accomplish today was to take a lot of the slop out of the steering.  I had purchased some generic "John Deere" replacement ball-joints at my local Agri-Supply that were the right size and wanted to replace all the ball joints in the steering linkage.  However, first I checked the steering box for play and found there was some play there, but a lot of it seemed to center around the pivot bolt not being tight enough.  I managed to tighten about 1/6 turn on the nut before it stopped moving, and the "wobble" of the steering arm was less than it had been.  I then tightened the adjusting screw a little bit as well, checking the full rotation of the steering gear while I did.  Greased the steering box, then began to replace the ball joints which is where I hit a snag.  The replacement ball joints I had purchased were labeled "LH" and "RH" when I purchased them, so I assumed that the steering rods were threaded appropriately at both ends.  Turns out that the Massey had standard Right Hand threads on both ends of the steering link, so I was only able to replace that pair.  I'll have to see if I can return the unused LH ones and swap them out for RH ones.  After everything was back together, I took a quick spin around the yard to see how it worked.  It looks like I took quite a bit of slop out, but I'll need to wait and do some garden work before the verdict is really in, as the tractor did track Ok for mowing duties, but did poorly trying to drive straight in the garden.


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#44 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2014 - 09:46 PM

Glad the Hydro is working as it should.
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#45 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2014 - 01:36 PM

And now the dump Massey is making the neighbors happy-sort of!!

 

My neighbor that has been helping with my kids and giving me tractor mowing time in return (How did I get such a win-win scenario going?) expressed a wish to plow her own garden,  and I think it will be her first.  So I was able to help her out, first time since December that it has been both warm and dry, always before the ground was wet or frozen.

GE 003.JPG GE 005.JPG GE 009.JPG

 

 

 

 


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