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My Cub 109


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#46 cantgetitright OFFLINE  

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Posted February 03, 2012 - 10:26 AM

You did a good job with it. Looks a lot better.


Thanks Kenny and BMX!! I cant wait to show Gramps.

#47 cantgetitright OFFLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2012 - 11:51 AM

I thought I read somewhere you could put an electric fuel pump on these tractors. Something about using a small fuel pump thats for a foreign car. Could someone direct me towards that or perhaps recommend one?

#48 cantgetitright OFFLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2012 - 11:52 AM

Oh yeah. Spot on with the timing advice fellas. I set the timing with my mutlimeter and it fires up immediately now. Purrs like a kitten.

#49 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2012 - 04:19 PM

I thought I read somewhere you could put an electric fuel pump on these tractors. Something about using a small fuel pump thats for a foreign car. Could someone direct me towards that or perhaps recommend one?

Why do you need a fuel pump? These never came with one. All gravity.
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#50 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2012 - 06:20 PM

I thought I read somewhere you could put an electric fuel pump on these tractors. Something about using a small fuel pump thats for a foreign car. Could someone direct me towards that or perhaps recommend one?


Unless you relocated the gas tank you dont need one. Factory the tank should be completely above the carb, like Kenny said, its all gravity feed.
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#51 IHCubGuy OFFLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2012 - 10:40 PM

I can't tell by any of your pictures if your motor is setup for it or not, but the K series did use a mechanical fuel pump on some of them depending on application. The way to tell is there is a small egg shape plate on the carb side held on by two capscrews. If it has this plate you coulkd mount a mechanical on it. As has allready been pointed out though that setup is gravity feed and would not offer any advantage for normal use.
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#52 cantgetitright OFFLINE  

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Posted February 11, 2012 - 10:39 AM

Of course you guys are right. After thinking about it and running it some I came to the same conclusion. It doesnt need a fuel pump. It takes a minute but the filter fills up and it never seems to starve for gas. As a matter of fact its the best running mower Ive ever owned. Granted the list is short but still that speaks volumes of the quality America can churn out.

Couple of problems I ran into. Its still leaking oil and flinging it in the engine compartment. So I concluded that it was leaking around the seal behind the PTO. So since I was going to have it off I decided to rebuild the PTO. Got everything off the front and got the pto and drive cup\pulley off no problem. Got the seal out and it was in fact cracked. Replaced that and put the drive cup back on to the specified 1 1/4 from the end of the pto shaft. Got everything back on there and its throwing the belt when I shut it off. Can I move the drive cup back a little to line it up with the pulley on the starter generator? I t seems to me that it was back a little farther when I took it off.

Also I was a litlle confused when I installed the anti-rattle springs on the friction disk> They slide over the lug to stop it from moving in the drive cup correct?

Its leaking a little oil around the governor shaft or the brass thing it goes through. Is there a seal or something that I can replace??

It was leaking oil at one spot where the head contacts the gasket. I retourqued the head bolts and hopefully it goes away.

It keeps breaking the wear button on the bar that contacts the PTO thrust bottun. It seems like the buttons are going in just a little crooked. The hole is wore funny on 1 side and looks like its causing the button to not be straight. Washer maybe??? Also there is a little play where the bar attaches to the tractor. It moves side to side a little causing the wear button to not be exactly centered on the thrust button. Will this cause it to break??

Sorry about the long winded post but I cant quit till its fixed and Im so close. Thanks in advance for the replies. :thumbs:

#53 cantgetitright OFFLINE  

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Posted February 11, 2012 - 10:46 AM

Ill post some pics in a minute. Its 8 degrees here so its taking the garage a minute to warm up.

#54 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted February 11, 2012 - 12:21 PM

On the PTO the bearing goes even with the end of the shaft, and the basket goes up tight to the back of the bearing. You may have the bearing back far enough. It sounds like the anti-rattle springs may be in correctly. If the basket is tight with the back of the bearing the springs will be in far enough to keep them from falling out. As far as the button, I use a brass button I bought off the Internet, and adjust the PTO where there just enough clearance so the button doesn't contact the clutch when released. The shaft shouldn't have a lot of side movement to it, you can adjust it a bit by tapping the bushings in a bit where they go through the frame. On my 129 one of the bushings has slid out and after I tapped it back in, the shaft was centered much better.
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#55 cantgetitright OFFLINE  

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Posted February 15, 2012 - 07:29 AM

Well I figured out why it was throwing the belt. I bent the pulley getting it off the shaft of the engine, So then I proceeded to try and straighten it. A new one is on its way. Nuff said.




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