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Shaw Du-All -19


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#16 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted December 23, 2011 - 07:13 AM

Ray, never seen a trailer coupler like that one before.

I never have either.
The design is unique but it isn't a very safe coupler.
It will work just fine for this rake but I would not have trusted it for towing a trailer down the road.
The gripping strength of the coupler is totally dependent on that thin strap that is wrapped around the front.
If that tension knob wasn't tight enough or the coupler got a good jolt from hitting a pot hole or something and that strap flipped up, the coupler would open up.

I enjoy looking thru old parts and accessory catalogs from the 20's and 30's and seeing all the different ideas they had back then.
Some ideas were good and others weren't so good.
I think a lot of small company's back then didn't spend much time or money on research and development.

#17 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted December 23, 2011 - 07:33 AM

Ray,as always.WOW! ,what a build.
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#18 Kyocum OFFLINE  

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Posted December 23, 2011 - 07:56 AM

Some of the best fabrication work I have seen in a long time. Keep up the great work.
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#19 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted December 24, 2011 - 05:53 PM

The rake has a round mounting pad on it with a hole in the center for attaching it to the 3-point hitch.
There are three holes on the side for the locator pin to hold the rake straight or at an angle.
The locator holes are on both sides so you could turn the rake around and face it backwards.

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Using a piece of aluminum tube for a pattern, I cut a round pad out of a piece of plate steel.

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The round plate is welded to a section of square tube and a center hole is drilled thru for the mounting bolt.
There is a boss welded to each side of the round pad for the locator pins.
The rake will only face forward on this stile of implement so I'm going to use both sets of locator holes.

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With the arm mounted on the rake, I set it in place to mark the location for the front pivot mount.
The rake is set forward enough so that it can be angled either way.

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The front of the mounting tube is trimmed off and the hole is bored in the end for the front pivot pin.

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A piece of round steel tube is pressed into the bored holes in the front.
The pivot pin will go thru this round tube.

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Two side mounting brackets are made up and welded onto the sides of the coupler.
The pivot pin has a tab welded on it and it is bolted to the side of the mounting bracket to keep the pin in place and keep it from rotating.

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Here's how it looks so far.

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#20 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted December 24, 2011 - 06:32 PM

Great work so far Ray. I wondered why the hitch was bolted to such a big piece of channel, but decided to hold out for the build to answer such questions lol.
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#21 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted December 24, 2011 - 06:42 PM

Great looking rake Ray! Always wondered about the pipe benders, & you've convinced me to put one on my "to get list"!
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#22 Misterbear OFFLINE  

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Posted December 25, 2011 - 01:58 AM

That is truly a nice implement you are building. Great work, you have a fine talent!
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#23 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 25, 2011 - 04:57 AM

That looks great, very simple way to attach and pivot the front. Should end up with lots of 'travel' up and down that way. I like the ability to angle the rake both ways, that will be real nice. A tube bender is real handy to have, always wanted one.
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#24 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted December 25, 2011 - 05:10 AM

A-1 job Ray.
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#25 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted December 25, 2011 - 09:24 AM

That looks great, very simple way to attach and pivot the front. Should end up with lots of 'travel' up and down that way.

That is an area in the design of the rake that I neglected to clarify. .. Thank you for mentioning that.
The frame work under the trailer coupler is open on the bottom so the arm for the rake goes up into it when the rake is raised.

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#26 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 25, 2011 - 10:09 AM

I kinda thought that was the plan. Lots of nice up/down movement there. That will make it nice to spread a pile, won't have to try to take it all at once. This is going to be one cool rake when you finish, just what the tractor needed.
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#27 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted December 25, 2011 - 04:35 PM

I didn't notice that Ray, very good idea, as usual.
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#28 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted December 25, 2011 - 07:27 PM

Ray, not to take away from your thread, but wondering how well these rakes work removing rocks from well tilled soil? I have a lot of big rock in my garden & considered buying a 3pt rake like yours. Any insight?
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#29 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted December 26, 2011 - 08:13 AM

Ray, not to take away from your thread, but wondering how well these rakes work removing rocks from well tilled soil? I have a lot of big rock in my garden & considered buying a 3pt rake like yours. Any insight?

This particular rake that I have is called a "rock rake" and I would think it would work well.
The tines are 1 inch wide and 3/16 inch thick hardened spring steel.
With the forward angle on them I think they would dig down under the rocks and pull them up out of the ground.

I've never used a rake like this before but I'm sure there are members here who have and can give you first hand experience of how they work.
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#30 Reverend Blair OFFLINE  

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Posted December 26, 2011 - 09:56 AM

They work well. Not as well as a rock picker on tilled soil, but far better than hand-picking, and rock pickers don't work on pasture. You can pull the rocks into piles and pick them up with a loader.

The one thing to watch is that you don't pull rocks too big for the rake. It will move them for a while, but then tines will bend or break. Once a tine bends, you can bend it back, but it will always be weaker at that point.
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