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317 question


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#1 JohnDeere214 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 14, 2011 - 11:35 AM

Hey all, I finally got started on the 317 project i have. Got the mower with no motor and finally got a hold of a kohler magnum 18 to put in. Dont have any ID #'s for the Magnum as the ID tag was gone. It came off a Yard Pro tractor.

2 questions regarding the electrical. 1)Magnum came with a oil sensor, can I just leave this unhooked?? and 2) do I have to change any of the original wiring for the KT series I to get it work with the Magnum?

oh heres a couple pics, not sure how good they are LOL

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#2 JDAddict OFFLINE  

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Posted December 21, 2011 - 12:08 PM

Not sure about the wiring,

But maybe this will help explain the sentry oil pressure sensor:

"This device is an oil pressure monitor. If the oil pressure becomes too low, then the sentry can either shut down the engine or activate a warning signal, depending upon how the device is used. The pressure switch in the sentry breaks contact as the oil pressure increases and makes contact as it decreases. For stationary or unattended applications such as a pump it can be designed to shut down the engine when oil pressure becomes too low. For applications where someone will be monitoring the engine, such as a lawn mower, the warning light becomes more appropriate. Pressure between 2 and 5 pounds per square inch (psi) are the triggering point for the oil sentry. Any pressure below those numbers activate the warning or shut down."

I would think you could leave it unhooked, without problems.




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#3 JohnDeere214 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 21, 2011 - 05:31 PM

thanks for the help!!

Got the Magnum in and wired up, will turn over but no fire at the plugs. Found over at WFM that I need a different ignition switch or do something with a relay?? still need to do some more research but at least no smoke from the wiring!! LOL

#4 JDAddict OFFLINE  

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Posted December 21, 2011 - 07:47 PM

I found the service manual for Kohler Magnums MV16, MV18 & MV20. you can download the manual here Magnum Vertical Shaft . Section 8 details the ignition system.
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#5 JohnDeere214 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 10, 2012 - 01:16 PM

Hey all, long time no see.....

this has been one of those on again, off again projects but FINALLY have the magnum installed and wired correctly. Was fortunate that the carb did not need cleaning and it runs great(so far...fingers crossed)....

now to get PTO installed, trans fluid drained and filter changed, etc but I am making some progress!! will have more pics next week.

#6 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted March 10, 2012 - 01:23 PM

Looking forward to the progress reports & the pictures.

Good news she's running again!

#7 Delmar OFFLINE  

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Posted March 10, 2012 - 01:28 PM

Sounds like you got yourself a great tractor in the works. I read somewhere that if you change out of the Kohler KT motor the 317 is a really good working tractor. I used to have a '86 ford LGT18H with the 18hp Kohler magnum (horizontal shaft) in it. It was a good motor.

#8 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted March 10, 2012 - 03:54 PM

Good luck with it. The engine was the weak link in those 317's. It's a pretty solid tractor and the one you have looks to be in good condition. Check your front axle pivot for slack. The bushings tend to wear out and now would be a good time to replace it. If there is only a bit of slack you can sometimes adjust it out using the castle nut on the axle pivot bolt. Keep us up to date on how it's going. It's good to see another of the old 300 series back in service.
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#9 JohnDeere214 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 16, 2012 - 11:24 PM

sorry for the delay, ran into a couple of issues as usual LOL

Engine was not running exactly right, adjusted carb and its a lot better but still not perfect. Poured some Seafoam in the gas and hope that helps so I dont have to go thru the carb.

Got the tranny fluid and filter changed and thats where the main "incident" occured. Had left some slack in gas line so i could raise the tank up to get to the filler tube better and after filling tranny put tank back down. Unknown to me the slack was up against the tranny fan and it grabbed it and cut it!! Not fun.....anyway got new gas line run and out of the way of the fan and finished filling tranny and purging it and all my hydraulics seem to be in working order.

Then installed pto and its not working, hoping its a bad switch as I dont seem to be getting juice to the pto. Tested the electo-magnet and it is working. I do have the seat switch jumpered(for testing purposes only as seat is not on tractor!!) could this be the issue?? Tractor will not start if PTO is on so that part of the switch is working......

Heres the pics i promised........

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Edited by JohnDeere214, March 16, 2012 - 11:25 PM.


#10 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted March 17, 2012 - 06:21 AM

It's good to hear you are making some progress on the 317. The PTO switch is a major cause of problems. There are 2 poles to the switch 1 provides the interlock which seems to be working and the other provides power to the clutch coil. Here are a couple of diagrams that may help you find the problem. You should check the coil for continuity as well. If memory serves it should be in the 3-4 ohm range. The - connection is back through the engine to the battery - terminal so that resistance needs to be low for it to work.


317 pto circuit.png
317 wiring diagram.png

#11 JohnDeere214 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 21, 2012 - 04:59 PM

OK, still have some issues with this dadgum tractor, hoping to get some ideas on whats going on.

As stated earlier, tractor is/was running, had bought new ignition switch(kohler 25-099-04) and wired it up per instructions found on WFM. switch wired as follows:

g- ground
S- solenoid---purple
R- Regulator/Rectifier----light green
B- Battery--- red

M- Coil---Pink
A- lights/accesory---yellow

tractor started and ran but when I turned switch to the off position it kept running, finally traced it to the pink wires for the seat switch. Jumped wires as seat/fender pan was removed from tractor. Now tractor starts and then cuts off as it should.

installed pto and pto not working, trace to yellow wire coming from pto switch had been cut at some point in time. wired into the lights/accesory terminal in switch. tractor will now fire but dies when switch is released from start postion to run position. checked pto switch and it seems to be working normally(not grounded).

Do i have a bad switch or does the yellow wire from the pto switch hook into something else??

thanks in advance for any ideas/suggestions!!!!

Edited by JohnDeere214, March 21, 2012 - 04:59 PM.


#12 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2012 - 07:19 PM

Have you printed the diagram in my post above. Check the ignition switch you have against the key switch connection chart in the diagram to verify that the switch you have is correct. If your ignition switch looks compatible with the tractor then check all the other wiring to make sure it's correct. I have a 314 which is very similar to the 317. The wiring had been totally messed with by Previous owners. Quite often the PTO switch is a cause of problems. Check both sides of the switch to make sure it's working. Let us know how your troubleshooting goes.
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#13 JohnDeere214 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 24, 2012 - 09:25 PM

Thanks for the support JDBrian, yea ive got the wiring diagram for the tractor and the pto. Had another used switch and same issue, even took switch apart and cleaned it.

Another thing i dont understand is the seat safety. It was unhooked(fender pan was off when i bought the tractor) and after getting tractor started and running, it would not cut off with the ignition switch until I used a jumper wire on the seat switch wires. As these are the wire(s) going to the pto switch im wonder if Ive got something messed up there.

Probably will be next week before i can work on the tractor again, but will keep brainstorming until then..........

thanks again!!

JD214

#14 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2012 - 06:15 AM

Yes, there is definitely something wrong there. The PTO switch is a source of a lot of problems. Often the switch will be bypassed on the safety side in order to keep the pto running when 1 side of the switch goes out. I would verify all the wiring before starting to connect the ignition switch. Mine was a total mess. What happens is that when an electrical problem occurs on an old tractor there is an attempt to fix it without spending a cent. So wiring gets changed, safety switches and fuses get bypassed and in the end it's a real mess. You shouldn't trust any of the wire colours until you verify where they are connected. Suspect everything. It also may be possible that your new engine should be wired into the ignition switch differently than the original. I can't help you with that as I have no experience with those Magnum engines.

#15 mikebramel OFFLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2012 - 11:29 AM

I dont know how you have it wired but the KT and Magnum engines are physically 95% the same engine. The ignition is different, KT has battery ignition and Magnum has magneto ignition. All that you need to do is hook up the ignition coil tab to the Ignition wire to your Magneto ignition switch. Make sure in the off position the Ignition tab on the switch has continuity to the block, otherwise the engine will run
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