Case 222 Hyd Drive not working right
Posted January 07, 2012 - 10:03 AM
- Twood said thank you
Posted January 07, 2012 - 08:07 PM
I am in the process of trying a different hydraulic motor. Should know tomorrow if that is the problem. Sounds like maybe I am starting on the wrong end.
Hmm... If no air, and oil spec is correct weight, I'd be suspicious of the pump efficiency, meaning the oil under pressure may be recirculating inside the pump itself and not moving at rated gpm downstream to the hyd motor. To test the pump, it would require a small capacity, hyd flowmeter to see if its producing gpm's of 85% or better gpm's off rated mfr. value of c.i. displacement per rev and engine rpm. Pumps are not validated on measuring pressure alone, they require pressure and flow both to make effective hydraulics. Same's true of the motor's rotor section, the gerotor must not be slipping internally or an otherwise good pump will deliver, but the motor is inefficient. Tough call when 99.9% of us don't have a flowmeter. Parts replacement is only alternative by process of elimination. I'd quicker say start with the pump. Typical hyd wear will show up there first because the housing is aluminum and the gearset is steel. The motor has an internal and external gear rotor set both made of steel.....Possibly a friend has some known good parts you could interchange with. ( only other wild guess would be a travel valve worn so badly the spool and casting lands are bypassing. I doubt it, but it is a possibility. Seems like the spool seals would be leaking bad too)...I'll stay tuned for you, see if I can help. Hope this helps here...Jeff
Posted January 10, 2012 - 11:09 PM
Posted January 11, 2012 - 07:13 AM
- Twood said thank you
Posted January 11, 2012 - 11:44 AM
Yes I tried 2 different motors both worked the same. Yes I know about the different location of the valve with the integrated valve. I will just measure the holes in the parts tractor to locate them on my tractor. The spool only travels out about 7/16 of an inch does that sound right. Was going to wait till next week to work on it but think I will go change it out today the bent tubing should work good enough to at least see if it works.
Have you changed the drive motor yet? Also when changing the TCV from a valve without the holding valve to one with the integral holding valve. one must relocate the valve 11/16" from the original location, rearward I think. I'll do some checking and verify this for you.
Posted January 11, 2012 - 02:59 PM
Posted January 13, 2012 - 05:50 PM
Edited by Twood, January 13, 2012 - 05:55 PM.
- MH81 said thank you
Posted January 13, 2012 - 08:27 PM
That will be a lesson well learned by all of us. Thank you for your patience with us and keeping us posted on what was going on. As far as the spool, I've never had mine apart, so I can't help there.
Posted January 14, 2012 - 07:05 AM
Posted January 14, 2012 - 10:59 AM
Yes that was all that came out. There was nothing between the two washers but after looking at the parts diagram that is normal. Yes they are on the sharp edges of the land. Don't understand why anyone would file on them. The linkage was all goofed up when I bought the tractor. The previous owner obviously didn't now what he was doing and must have filed on it for some reason. Just wish I would have started with the control valve first. That probably explains the reason I couldn't get a 300# psi reading on the retard test. If it is normal to give it more to go up the ditch I guess the Case is closed.
As for needing to give it more out of the ditch, normal. Is that all that came out ? What was between the washers on the left side, and where are the file marks? If any are on the Sharp edges of the lands its junk.
Posted January 14, 2012 - 06:31 PM
Sorry we couldn't get you on that valve sooner.
Posted January 15, 2012 - 11:59 AM
Edited by Twood, January 15, 2012 - 12:27 PM.
- Billygoat said thank you
Posted January 16, 2012 - 12:06 PM