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Case 222 Hyd Drive not working right


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#1 Twood OFFLINE  

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Posted December 13, 2011 - 01:50 PM

I just purchased a Case 222 Serial #14036855 with the black frame. It doesn't move until I move the travel lever to the 4th spot and last spot. It works about the same in reverse except it will move a little in the lower spots with no resistance. Tied it to a tree and in the 4th and last spot it dug a hole in my yard with chains on. Is this air in the system or a transaxle problem or the hydraulic control valve bad? Also does anyone know what year it is? Read that they only made the black frame in 1983-1984. Thanks

#2 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 13, 2011 - 05:18 PM

Twood :welcometogttalk:

There are several guys here who have been into those trannies... hopefully one will see this post soon.

#3 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted December 13, 2011 - 05:49 PM

Twood,welcome to the forum.Glad to have you with us.

#4 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 13, 2011 - 06:12 PM

Welcome to the forum! I can't help you, but will watch for the answer to this issue. Good luck with it.

#5 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted December 13, 2011 - 06:22 PM

It might be one of several things, but I'm not qualified to get deep into these. Some true Hydriv guru's should be along shortly. We have a few guys well versed on these systems. Hang tight....they will be here.

#6 cp7 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 13, 2011 - 09:24 PM

I'd say you've got linkage issues. I haven't run into it myself but have seen where others had similar complaints.

Definitely welcome to the group.

1.jpg
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#7 KBear OFFLINE  

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Posted December 13, 2011 - 10:57 PM

I just purchased a Case 222 Serial #14036855 with the black frame. It doesn't move until I move the travel lever to the 4th spot and last spot. It works about the same in reverse except it will move a little in the lower spots with no resistance. Tied it to a tree and in the 4th and last spot it dug a hole in my yard with chains on. Is this air in the system or a transaxle problem or the hydraulic control valve bad? Also does anyone know what year it is? Read that they only made the black frame in 1983-1984. Thanks

Your 222 is definitely a 1983 model year. As cp7 has mentioned it sounds to me also that you may just need to adjust your travel lever linkage.

Raise the rear end of your tractor and secure it on both sides with jack stands just high enough off the ground so the wheels are not touching the ground. Find your way underneath the tractor about midsection and locate the travel valve (looks like the image cp7 posted). Have someone move the travel lever forward and backward and you'll understand immediately how the lever engages the travel valve. Sounds as though you may need to shorten the linkage. Once you've shorten the linkage slightly, start the tractor and slowly push the travel lever forward and see if that has made at least some difference. If you do indeed notice a positive change I'm sure you'll need to make additional adjustment (shorten the linkage) until you're able to get the wheels to move as they should when the lever is pushed forward and slow and stop when the lever is placed in neutral. You'll need to repeat this procedure until the travel lever is synchronized with the valve. Below is an image of the travel lever and its respective linkage to the travel valve. Hope this helps. Be sure to update us on your results.

Case_222_Tractorpartsmanual.jpg

Kenneth
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#8 CASENUT OFFLINE  

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Posted December 13, 2011 - 11:59 PM

Sounds like you're onto the fix. BTW I have one of these Black Frame 222's and mine is VERY FAST!

#9 Billygoat OFFLINE  

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Posted December 14, 2011 - 05:28 AM

While you are under there looking at the linkage, look for wear (using KBear's pic as ref.) on part #6 where it meets part #2. Also check part #8 for for wear in the ball joint of this piece, it should be "slop free". If the is any wear on these pieces, it will cause a considerable amount of aggravation when trying to get the correct adjustment on the linkage.
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#10 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 14, 2011 - 06:26 AM

Thanks, guys. Not having one of these at present, this educates me on the issue and what to look for.

#11 mikebramel OFFLINE  

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Posted December 14, 2011 - 10:28 AM

There has to be alot of slop if it doesnt engage that whole range. Good thing most of the parts are generic and what you cant buy at the hardware store can still be bought at an Ingersoll dealer
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#12 Twood OFFLINE  

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Posted December 15, 2011 - 07:32 PM

Your 222 is definitely a 1983 model year. As cp7 has mentioned it sounds to me also that you may just need to adjust your travel lever linkage.

Raise the rear end of your tractor and secure it on both sides with jack stands just high enough off the ground so the wheels are not touching the ground. Find your way underneath the tractor about midsection and locate the travel valve (looks like the image cp7 posted). Have someone move the travel lever forward and backward and you'll understand immediately how the lever engages the travel valve. Sounds as though you may need to shorten the linkage. Once you've shorten the linkage slightly, start the tractor and slowly push the travel lever forward and see if that has made at least some difference. If you do indeed notice a positive change I'm sure you'll need to make additional adjustment (shorten the linkage) until you're able to get the wheels to move as they should when the lever is pushed forward and slow and stop when the lever is placed in neutral. You'll need to repeat this procedure until the travel lever is synchronized with the valve. Below is an image of the travel lever and its respective linkage to the travel valve. Hope this helps. Be sure to update us on your results.


Thank for taking the time to help me out. I did find out that the linkage wasn't tight and the shift lever #2 was worn in the casting down on the bottom. I tightened the linkage and installed a bushing at the end of #2. After that I had to readjust the linkage because it was way off. Jacked up everything worked like it should. But when back on the ground it worked better than before but it still doesn't go in the low speeds. It sort of does on the level garage floor. Had my wife move the shift lever and it moved rod in and out on the hydraulic control valve like it should.

Edited by Twood, December 16, 2011 - 08:02 PM.


#13 Twood OFFLINE  

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Posted December 15, 2011 - 07:33 PM

There has to be alot of slop if it doesnt engage that whole range. Good thing most of the parts are generic and what you cant buy at the hardware store can still be bought at an Ingersoll dealer



Yes there was a lot of slop and I tightened it up but it still doesn't work right.

Edited by Twood, December 16, 2011 - 07:32 PM.


#14 Twood OFFLINE  

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Posted December 15, 2011 - 07:35 PM

While you are under there looking at the linkage, look for wear (using KBear's pic as ref.) on part #6 where it meets part #2. Also check part #8 for for wear in the ball joint of this piece, it should be "slop free". If the is any wear on these pieces, it will cause a considerable amount of aggravation when trying to get the correct adjustment on the linkage.


Thanks those both seemed tight

Edited by Twood, December 16, 2011 - 07:34 PM.


#15 KBear OFFLINE  

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Posted December 17, 2011 - 04:11 PM

Jacked up everything worked like it should. But when back on the ground it worked better than before but it still doesn't go in the low speeds. It sort of does on the level garage floor.

First of all Thank You for returning to the forum to update us on your progress. What about the hydraulic fluid level in the reservoir? Have you check that fluid level lately? Do you have an Operator's Manual (OM)? My Case 222 is a little older than yours (1973), but it shouldn't be too far off. My OM states: "Maintain oil level between two and three inches from the top of the filler opening." The level could be low enough that you need to open the control valve further in order to get the tractor to move forward. How about the hydraulic oil itself? What oil are you using in your hydraulic system? You need to be using SAE 5W-20 Motor Oil in winter(below 32 degrees F.) and SAE 20W-40 Motor Oil in summer. "Use only oil which is rated at API engine service classification SE or CC."

Kenneth




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