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Sears SS14 Points plunger problem,points stay open nearly whole time,then close"HELP"


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#1 aftonrob OFFLINE  

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Posted December 12, 2011 - 12:42 PM

Hi,im no stranger to setting points but this Sears SS14 with a cast iron briggs motor is really got me bumfuzzled.This motor has the points plunger with brass bushing.It rides on the cranshaft"i think"This is what its doing.It does everything backwards really in my experience with points.When i gap the points they will stay open all the time and close for a second and open again.If you shorten the gap,the plunger feels like it doesnt push open the points at all.I think the bushing needs to be pushed in so the plunger makes contact with the shaft??I read some where that the bushing is supposed to stick out 30 thousandths?There is no movement of the plunger because its not making contact with the crankshaft?The only other thing i know to do is remove the bearing cover and see if its making contact or not.I would like to avoid this and thats why im hoping someone else has had this problem.This SS14 has set for id say 25 plus years outside.Im going to use and make a mean machine out of it again,but the points has got me stuck.Any help would be great.

#2 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted December 12, 2011 - 06:14 PM

My very early MF12 has points ignition, and I had a similar problem. Turned out the plunger itself was sticking in the bushing. It would run a few minutes, then I assume as things warmed up, the push pin would expand. I removed the points so I could pull out the push pin, used a cotton swab soaked with carb cleaner to clean the bushing of any varnish buildup. Push pin was still a bit tight. Finally had to take emery cloth & lightly work over the pin. It's been fine ever since!
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#3 ckjakline OFFLINE  

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Posted December 13, 2011 - 04:09 AM

I also had the same issue on a massey 10.Fiberglass pushrod swelled up when hot and got stuck.Used emery cloth also.

#4 aftonrob OFFLINE  

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Posted December 13, 2011 - 07:14 AM

Thanks for the tips,but i fear the worst that the cam lobe for the points is wore down completely.Im going to take the cover off and see for sure.If the cam is wore or the plunger,im going to repolarize it.The points plunger for the 14HPs are nearly 40.00 and if it needs new points then thats 20.00 more.I can send off the flywheel to briggs and get it back cheaper than that.If the cam lobe is worn,then there is no other choice,maybe the nova 2 ignition module.I have one of those but dont know how well they do.I want to use points,im old school i guess.

#5 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 13, 2011 - 08:15 PM

I seriously doubt the cam is that worn. Fiberglass on steel with oil would take a long time do do much damage. Didn't someone come up with a cheap, readily available push rod? I thought I remember reading that in the Massey Forum somewhere...

#6 aftonrob OFFLINE  

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Posted December 14, 2011 - 06:26 AM

Im pretty sure there is no fiberglass in my the plunger i have.Mines metal on metal.Maybe the tip might be something fiberglass like.The plunger i have is Briggs number 298125 been out of production for nearly twenty years.Its the longest plunger" nearly 3 inches long"that was made and unfortunately the most expensive,BUT if you know of a alternative to this im all ears.What led me to believe it was the cam was how the plunger acted.It stayed open nearly all the time and the spot where the cam once opened it had a a dip in it and it shut for a second and then stayed open again.If anyone knows of a alternative email me the link that replaces the plunger.

#7 aftonrob OFFLINE  

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Posted December 14, 2011 - 07:55 AM

Heres a picture of my plunger.plunger.jpg

#8 GTTinkerer OFFLINE  

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Posted December 14, 2011 - 01:48 PM

Not real sure on the B&S cast iron 14 but I just went to the garage and checked the cast iron 16 on the Copar Panzer. The points stay open until the piston is almost to TDC and then close to fire the external coil. So yours seems to be working the same way. I also checked the cast iron 8 hp I have and it works the same way and it used the magneto on/near the flywheel. Same plunger in the 16 hp.

I know that the smaller B&S engines with the two piece point/condenser set-up work backwards but I believe the cast iron engines all fire when the points close as do the "old" automobile distributors.

When I put the engine in the Panzer it had the magneto on/near the the flywheel but the magneto was trash so I replaced it with a 12 volt internal resistor coil but did not touch the points and it has ran fine for several years.

Bill

Edited by golfwrench, December 14, 2011 - 01:59 PM.

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#9 aftonrob OFFLINE  

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Posted December 14, 2011 - 04:10 PM

So its a backwards operating type setup then.Everything ive ever worked on fires the plug when the points open.Ive learned something new about old briggs stuff for sure now.With new knowledge,im going to rewire it,get a welch plug for the carb,and it should run.Thanks for information,i was about to spend some money that i didnt need to.

#10 GTTinkerer OFFLINE  

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Posted December 14, 2011 - 05:06 PM

Funny you mention the welch plug, I noticed today that mine is missing on the 16 hp engine also. Mine probably blew out due to a backfire though the carb.

Bill

#11 mikebramel OFFLINE  

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Posted December 14, 2011 - 11:28 PM

The points close to complete the ground side of the circuit




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