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One Inch Thick.......


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#46 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted December 13, 2011 - 05:12 AM

Wow, now I know I have been out of the loop. At first I thought this was that other guy's thread and then I read the thread title and didn't see plate and then I thought maybe someone was confessing......... :bigrofl:



I must say,somehow so did I,............ at first.:DSorry about that.

#47 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 13, 2011 - 05:08 PM

Did some checking around. McMaster-Carr is cheapest on the 7/16"-20 B7 all thread, so I'll probably go that way. Have to get some lug nuts, that shouldn't be too hard. Got to find some plate for the outer piece to sandwich the lead, or something cheap.

#48 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 14, 2011 - 06:41 AM

I ordered the all-thread and some nylock nuts to hold the rotors on. I'm going to use all 5 studs, hopefully cut down on flex with the weight hanging out there like it will be. Turkey fryer should show sometime today, still need a propane tank for it.

#49 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 15, 2011 - 06:09 AM

Fryer showed about 6:30 pm last night, thanks Lee. Looks like the pan I planned to use will fit just fine on it. I have some 3" wide X 1/4" strap that may make the outer part of the sandwich. I'll weld something for the lead to 'stick' to on the inside of these, or just bolt all the way thru in the center of the rotors. Need some decent weather to figure out some of this. Hopefully tomorrow, today I have to go crawl around under a house to replace a water line fitting. Such fun!
  • Alc said thank you

#50 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted December 15, 2011 - 06:22 AM

Kenny the wheels you have don't have extra holes for mounting the weights on ? I'm thinking the square ones that you would put a carriage bolt through the back side facing out .

#51 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 15, 2011 - 06:35 AM

Yes, there are holes. But these rotors stand proud of the outside of the wheels by 3/8"-1/2". Rotor holes in the center match the tractors wheel bolt pattern, so I thought I would bolt them on that way. The Fords have a very large center hole, so I can't go tight to the wheel there. When I get the camera back from my daughter, I'll see if I can get some pics. maybe I need to rethink the whole idea. I really didn't want the weight rubbing the paint off the wheels, plus they will be used on the other tractors when needed.

#52 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted December 15, 2011 - 06:48 AM

Maybe since your using threaded rod you could have a nut & washer on either side of the wheel then another set to mount the wheel weight on and if you used a different bolt circle ( so the studs are angled out a little , think 3 legged bar stool ) it might make a better job holding the weights , Al

#53 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 15, 2011 - 07:18 AM

The Ford has a different offset on the centers than most wheels. I was thinking it better to bolt the centers of the rotors tight at the lugs and mount the lead weights to them. I am little skeptical of (4)1/2" all threads holding 70 lbs. out there and not bending. Plus I'd have to have another set for the other tractors. The rotors would give a flat surface to mount to. Once I get some pics of my plan up, maybe a different scenario will appear. Plus, I might be putting too much hanging off the axle end, just thought of that. That's the problem with arm chair designing, doesn't catch all the problems.

#54 Stimey OFFLINE  

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Posted December 24, 2011 - 06:14 PM

IMG_0232.jpg
I dont know how to attach a pdf or dwg or what ever here but see if you can view this sketch that I took a picture of, I just took a pic of my pc screen sorry. At any rate I really like the idea of the brake rotors, I was thinking of rolling two rings out of 16ga. one for the OD or the rotor one for the ID or the rotor, then skip weld them on the rotor. A person could weld a couple threaded tabs 180 degrees apart on the inside. Then make a 16 ga. circle with holes to match the treaded tabs in the housing, fill this cavity with lead then put your lid on. T'he center would still be open so you can get to the center for attachment. Just brain storming I need wheel weights LOL.

#55 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 25, 2011 - 09:07 AM

I haven't been able to get back to this with the weather/holiday, but I intend to soon. I 'see' your idea, Stimey, and believe that would work well. The rotors I have are spaced further back than in your side view. Jpcubs was over the other day and suggested filling the area between the wheel and rotor with the lead. This would entail making a mold to fit the wheel. His reasoning was then the weights wouldn't stick past the outside of the tire. Since I have no way to make this mold, I will let them stick out. I do have an old skillet I can use for this mold and the lead will only be about 1.25" thick. That should get about 60-70 lb. weights.
RotorSide.jpg
My main concern is whether I am introducing stress on the axle by bolting this on top of the wheel studs. I hope to be able to use these on the other tractors in the future.
I'll be glad to have the camera back so I can take pics of all this soon.

#56 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted December 25, 2011 - 10:31 AM

My main concern is whether I am introducing stress on the axle by bolting this on top of the wheel studs. I hope to be able to use these on the other tractors in the future.


Doesn't matter really, as any weight attached to the rim in any fashion has to exert the force back to the rim attachment point. But, the closer the weight is to the hub/rim mating area, the less leverage it has against the hub/axle. The perfect weight is fluid in the tires only, with a rim center plate directly in the middle of the rim. That way the axle carries no extra stress, other than pulling along the extra weight. The fluid just spins inside, so really carries no rotating force.

#57 ducky OFFLINE  

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Posted December 25, 2011 - 10:47 AM

I have used Cummins NTC 855 Crank shaft vibration dampers. Perfect fit and weight 25lbs. That is not to popular today but other engine may fit as well.

#58 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 25, 2011 - 12:10 PM

Thanks, guys. Daniel, I hope to load the tires as well as the weights. The rotors will be bolted on using longer studs for the wheels, then the lead bolted to them.
Ducky, these rotors weight about 15 lbs. I hope to add about 50-60 of lead to each of them. Need to cut the new studs to length out of the all-thread I just got.

#59 Stimey OFFLINE  

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Posted December 25, 2011 - 01:35 PM

Thanks for fixing my example Kennyp, LOL I have some wheel weights that are plastic with the long carriage bolts attaching them, when I first got my tractor I decided to give it a face lift my grandson was taking the the wheels weights for me I told him they were heavy be careful he gave quite a look when we found out they were empty . You would have had to been there, would concrete weigh very much if I were to fill those plastic weights? Happy Holidays and God Bless

#60 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted December 25, 2011 - 02:14 PM

would concrete weigh very much if I were to fill those plastic weights?


You can buy those plastic weight cases empty. They are to be either filled with sand or concrete. Most weigh either 50 or 55lbs each with concrete fill.




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