This is what I did to re-power my Massey Ferguson MF12 Hydraspeed garden tractor with a 13hp Honda clone.
The tractor came with a 12 hp Tecumseh HH120 engine with a starter/generator setup and looked like the tractor on the left.
Later models had a ring gear starter and alternator, looked like this.
[attachment=25795:510.attach]The Honda clone engine I used was bought at Princes Auto, 13hp 389cc, has electric start, trickle charge alt, muffler and fuel tank.
Installing the engine, the footprint is the same so mounting it on the chassis is easy as the mounting holes lining up, the crankshaft ends up in almost the same spot so all the drive belts and PTO clutch work as well.
The original pulley is 1 1/8", the crank on the clone is 1", pulley needs to be shimmed or replaced with proper size. 2 pulleys are needed, 1 for transaxle, 1 for PTO.
On the "Vari-Drive" tractors you must use original pulley because of the belt width that's used.
1- I drilled a hole in the choke lever of the clone in order that I could use the choke control cable, I had to replace the cable with a longer one, or you could use a universal push-pull type. I routed the cable around the front of the engine to get the proper action and made a small clamp to hold the cable in place which was attached to one of the carburetor mount screws.
[attachment=25798:6988.attach]2- The exhaust, muffler does not fit under the hood so I cut the clones exhaust pipe and welded in a 1" 90deg elbow, doing this will position the muffler outside the engine bay without butchering the hood. To do this 1 small notch was cut in the grill for it to fit.
[attachment=25803:7101.attach]3- Air cleaner, part of the assembly was removed, outer cover, as there is not enough room under the hood for it.
[attachment=25792:3250.attach]4- Wiring, tractor was rewired for the motor using the key switch that came with the motor and the clones alternator hooked up to the battery. You have to marry the old with the new here. Starter/generator and it's regulator, or on late model tractors that have alt/regulators on them need to be eliminated.
5- The original fuel tank was removed the the clones tank used, it was left mounted on the engine. There is room for the original tank and can be left in place if that's what you want to do.
Some before and after pictures.
[attachment=25802:7100.attach][attachment=25799:701.attach]I have done 2 MF12 Hydra tractors with this motor, the first thing you will notice is the clones are quieter, better muffler. The clones need lots of choke to start, even when hot they need a bit to get going.
Performance, no difference noticed, a good running HH motor has just as much power as the 13hp clone. A HH100 10hp Tecumseh is the same displacement as the clone. The HH120 12hp is a larger engine.
The clone might out power the HH100 10hp at high rpm, but not the HH120 12hp. Both tractors I did worked good, all the attachments still fit and can be used without modifications.
If your thinking of re powering your MF10 or MF12 this is a option to consider and will deliver good results. 1 down side is the charging circuit that comes with the clones I used is not strong enough to run the lights without draining the battery.
Pictures of the 2 tractors I did.
- Dec 23, 2014 06:05 PM
- by DH1
The Massey Ferguson MF650 Tiller is for the Massey Ferguson MF10 and MF12 garden tractors.
The Massey Ferguson MF650 tiller came in two different sizes. The 22" MF650 tiller was 22" wide and weighs 140lbs. The 38" tiller weighs 180lbs and uses an optional extension piece to give it the 38" width.
To be able to mount the tiller on to your Massey Ferguson MF10 or MF12 garden tractor you need a rear lift kit. If you don't have a lift kit on your Massey you can find lift kits for sale either in the classifieds section here at GTtalk or places like eBay.
Massey Ferguson MF10 garden tractors made before serial #6365 need a couple of extra modifications done to fit a rear lift kit. The rear plate needs to be drilled out and 2 holes added for the lift spring bracket. Massey Ferguson MF10 and MF12 garden tractors 1967 and newer do not need any modifications done and everything will bolt right on. If you need help identifying the year of your Massey Ferguson garden tractor you can use this serial number build date sheet in the GTtalk Manuals section.
There were two different gearboxes that were used over the years. One has a single output shaft and the other has two output shafts. Not sure what the extra front shaft is for on the second style gear box.
There are two different style drive shafts along with two different style gear box inputs for later and newer tillers. The later tillers had a square end at the tiller and a spline end on the gear box at the pto and the drive shaft had matching ends accordingly.
The newer tillers had splines on the gearbox and splines at the tiller. The drive shaft had splines at both ends of the drive shaft. The belt used to power the gearbox from the power take off is A34, 4L360 or Gates #2360.
There is also a difference in frame size between the Massey Ferguson MF12 Hydrostatic or Variable Speed models, the MF10 only came as a variable gear drive model. The hydrostatic drive garden tractors are longer then the variable drive sister. There is a small extension piece that mounts to the MF650 tiller to make up the difference in frame size on the MF12 hydrostatic model.
The 22" wide tiller uses 2 lift assist springs the the 38" wide tiller uses 3 lift assist springs. When mounting the tiller to your tractor the tiller goes to the middle holes on the rear lift brackets.
So far I have only used the 22" wide MF650 tiller. I have used it both on the Varidrive and Hydra drive garden tractors and it works good on both. I feel the gear drive tractors have an advantage in that the tractor moves at a slower steady pace. With the Hydra drive I feel it is a little tricky to do this but it can be done. The manual says to run the engine at 3/4 power.
I just recently bought a 38" wide MF650, searched for three years for it and it needs a good once over before I use it, which I haven't had time to do yet. Hopefully I will have time to do it this coming spring.
If you are looking to buy one it is very important to make sure that you get everything. There are a lot of incomplete ones out there. It doesn't do any good if you can't mount it.
Here are some pictures to show the various details as well as photos from the manual.
If you have a MF650 tiller or other Massey Ferguson tiller and have any questions post about in in the Massey Ferguson tractor forum here at GTtalk. For reference there is the Massey Ferguson MF650 Tiller Operators Manual and the Massey Ferguson MF10 and MF12 Service Manual.
- Dec 24, 2014 09:00 AM
- by DH1
I picked up this 1966 Massey Ferguson MF10 garden tractor last winter from a friend, at the time I was looking for a parts tractor and he had a complete one plus another in pieces. When I picked it up noticed some different features mainly narrow wheels, tires and aluminum dash. Serial # 1446 005183 dates this to be a 1966 which is the first year of production.
I decided that this was one to fix up. The more I got into this the more I realized that it has a lot of unique features that the 1966 Massey Ferguson MF10 garden tractors came with.
The more obvious details are Starter/Generator, Aluminum dash, Sticker for serial #, Cast iron steering arm, Pointy numbers on the amp meter, No holes in the rear plate for tiller attachment, Rear fender guards with rubber edges, and the narrow wheel option. Also some other not so obvious differences are two sets of engine mounting holes, missing the center frame rib under the engine, PTO foot pedal non adjustable, PTO jack shaft has no grease fitting, Brake assembly is different, plus a lot of little things. They made about 6000 or so of these in 66 and if you search the "AGCO parts" books it tells you everything in there. For example when they used what parts on what serial number tractors. Tractor came with a 3 foot stack on it and no attachments.
Here is a couple of shots to show the differences between the frame of an early 1966 and a newer frame with the center rib:
First step was so see what worked and what didn't. The shifter was out of it and I figured transmission had water in it. Was locked up and being winter thought it was frozen, after some time in a heated garage, drained the fluid, not much water came out. Tried moving the shifter forks and found that they moved too easily, the detents were not working, transmission has to come apart to fix.
Next was to test the engine, found no spark caused by the points not moving because the little push rod was stuck, little bit of penetrating oil, got it moving and got spark. Cleaned out the carburetor and got it running. Right away I found a gas leak from the float bowl and an oil leak out of the breather tube. The engine ran pretty good, no smoke, a little noisy inside though. Tested compression and it was at 120lbs. Discovered the breather cover on upside down and that was the cause of the oil leak, drain holes inside the cover need to be at the bottom. Decided that it was good enough to use as is.
Next was a full disassemble, I broke the steering wheel trying to get it of. Started cleaning, repairing and painting everything. Pulled the transmission apart to fix the detents and also found a broken shifter stop inside. I pulled the spare transmission apart and it's shifter stop was good, also this transmission was much cleaner on the inside than the 66's, so I decided to use the spare as it was the best of the two. Had to replace the shifter detent springs in it as both transmissions detent springs were broken. Got the transmission back together, used the 66's brake unit, no choice here the frames are different, transmission mounts are different but the transmissions are the same.
When painting the motor I noticed the crank had some end play in it, figured this was the source of the noise inside so I ordered some shims and gasket set to fix it.
When starting reassembly I installed a bunch of grease fittings which I drilled and tapped in spots that didn't have any that I figured could use a bit of grease now and then. Adjusted up the variable drive assembly using the best belts I had. Put on new seat covers and foam, installed light kit with original style bulbs, including the tail light. Got everything back together tested and working but the steering wheel that I broke, couldn't find another one, so I had to use one I had that fit. The tractor is also missing the rubber strips on the rear fender guards. For the front tires I used wheel barrow tires, same size as originals which were shot, still looking for tires like the ones that were on it. Also picked up a pair of AG rear tires on rims same size as originals.
Its all finished, painted and everything works the way it should, has a slight knock in the engine. Pictures tell the story, this is not a perfect restoration but I got what I wanted, a good working tractor that has the unique 66 MF10 features.
- Jan 01, 2015 09:46 AM
- by DH1
I will start out with a picture of the tractor as it sat with it's flat front tires at the sellers yard.
Unsure that it would run or move. I first replaced the SSI, really weak spark. Rebuilt the carb. and replaced the front tires so that it could roll...hopefully under it's own power?
She fired up and ran great. The hydro worked fine as well. Now that I know that all of the major systems worked I can start the tear down.
I removed the engine and started taken her down to the bare frame.
I did not own a digital camera when I did this restoration, so I don't have many pictures of the rebuild. So I will basically jump to the finished product.
After media blasting every single part, then priming and painting. As well as rebuilding everything I could possible rebuild.... it finally emerged from the garage under it's own power....
Close, but not quite finished
Right after I got it back together, the hydro started leaking. I had to tear it down to find the source of the problem.
After tearing it down I found that the input shaft seal was leaking.
I ordered a new seal from MF and got her on the road again.
Later that year I got to use the plow and I found out that lifting that plow with the manual lift was almost more work than shoveling.
This problem got me thinking about my first modification. I looked high and low for a power lift, but they seem to be rarer than hens teeth. So, I decided to fabricate a power lift. My first tractor fabrication project.
I bought a used electric actuator, and fabed up a mount that fit up into the frame, that allowed it to pivot. It tucks up nicely under the frame, you can't really see it, unless you look under the tractor.
I mounted the switch to operate the lift in the dash. Looking back on it now, I should have oriented the switch the other way. I still get confused which way to push it for up or down.
It operates the mid point and the sleeve hitch. I replaced the mid point lift pivot arm for more leverage, and boy is it strong. The helper springs are not needed on the plow, tiller, and blower.
Here she is all back together and ready for more snow.
- Dec 29, 2014 06:06 PM
- by tweidman
I had this 1650 garden tractor for a few years, but never had much call to use it since I had so many others. Then my nephew asked if I had a heavy duty garden tractor I'd sell. I decided to let it go. He asked if I could restore it too, so shot him a cheap price for all. Basically I broke even $ wise & gave him my labor. He's a good nephew & never asks for any help on anything, so he's deserving of a big favor. If you knew some of my other nephews, you'd know just how deserving he is! LOL
Anyway, this is how she started out:
Mechanically she was ready to go.
I changed the color scheme to more match the full size Massey tractors. I think the flint metallic gray chassis looks better. There is a sticky thread with the Massey Ferguson paint codes and color schemes in the Massey & Snapper tractor forum.
Here's the red sheet metal painted. I used OE Massey enamel, with high quality wet look hardener.
Here she is completed & ready for him to pick up. Was an 8hr one way for him to come get her, but for some reason he didn't mind a bit! It's gonna make him a great garden tractor for sure!
I also let this rear 3pt mower in with the sale as I hardly ever used it. I built it from a Yard Man rider's 52" mower deck. He got a heck of a deal, tractor like new, new tires all around, with rear mower for $1550.00. BTW...I made these decals myself too. Had the wife help me when I overlaid the colors. Extra hands help a lot!
- Dec 30, 2014 06:36 PM
- by olcowhand