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H16XL-FEL-engine ignition--alternator--powersteering


H16XL-FEL-engine ignition--alternator--powersteering

Finley got this all done, Been playing around with it couple days seem ok,I did an OH160 ignition up-grade and added a GM alternator for charging, added power steering and FEL.

 

I got help from some guys who worked on these things and if anyone has questions about anything I did I,d be glad to try and explane and help out.

 

I stripped this tractor down to frame and welded a 5/16x3x3 angle all way down the frame and inside added a ¼ x2x16 long piece from front of loader mount to where axle is cause I did not want a brace from loader mount down to front of tractor. Also I made new front axle from 1 1/2inch soild steel and made new king pin set up to weld spindles on, also added plate to axle mount, put needle bearings and thrust washers too. Bored out to 1inch for bearings.
Made mount for pump with a 1 inch coupler drilled four and tapped threads for bolts to shaft on pto can take off and run snow blower if needed.
Made a pully for GM alternator on back side of engine and an adjustable mount works good so far charge at 14.25 volt.
I first added a GM 4 pin module with a round magnetic pickup and a 3 ohm coil, started ok but not rev up, SO talk to some people and the GM will only work with a cube type pickup and then any coil, I I kepted the GM for my other H16XL and got a ford module with a 40,000 volt coil and it runs real nice now, the ford will work with the round pickup.
I got a NEW carb. Also for $22 delivered, I looked up a one cyl. Kohlor 16 HP engine which takes the exact same cfm and bore and mounted right on the oh160 works real good.

 

Power steering I tapped into the tractor hyd. And got a one spool valve hooked up to steering linkage and a 4 inch stroke hyd. Cyl. And worked out good.

 

I moved the battery to the back for weight and made a hyd. Tank holds around 4 gallens in back also.

 

The FEL I used 2x3 tube and a lot of scrap steel I had around must have built it ten times all times I changed things but it worked out ok, I made it so theres five bolts on each side and it comes off, the Hyd. Hard lines I had to buy from a steel place and made a bender on my log splitter worked out good ,also use log-splitter to bend pieces for bucket mount.
Heres all I paid for things
Tractor—100 with deck and snow blower
80 for four NEW old stock 26inch hyd. Cyl,s
75 for tubeing for lines has .067 thick walls ans seamless
20 for two ten foot 2x3 tubing
20 for hyd. Pump seal kit got pump free works good now [16 GPM two stage pump] some say wont work but here it is and works fine.
75 for two spool valve
235 for rest hyd. Fittings and hoses
60 for welding rods and ele.
80 paint etc
25 for NEW seat
80 for engine ignition upgrade
20 for pully and belt for alt. Got alt. Free
Got some hyd. Hoses from a farmer that past away.
Think thats about it, a person can do this cheap AND build it good if he takes time to look around for deals I always get a lot steel from dumpsters it something what they throw away no a days/

 

You can look at this and say I would have done that different or made that better etc. Which I did do a lot of times but this is what I ended up with, works now, will it last 2o years?? Heck who knows??




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